Lbs bb removal ?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Tc
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Are the splines on the non-drive side also totally destroyed? And what kind of BB is it, Shimano or something else? If the non-drive splines are still in good shape and you have the proper spline tool to fit them, a pneumatic impact wrench (or a 2' long breaker bar) should make short work of getting it out if it's also seized up, just make sure you have the right spline tool and the splines are fully engaged or you will tear them out too.

If it's a Shimano or other cartridge BB, once the non-drive side cup it out of the way you can tap the main cartridge (bearings and spindle assembly) out of the drive side cup and then use a hacksaw blade to cut the remaining cup out.

If you don't have a work stand to hold the bike, get someone to hold it steady for you. You'll never get the spline tool to stay seated if you're trying to balance the bike against a wall while putting a lot of pressure on it, the bike will just move around and you'll end up stripping out the existing splines (if any are left).
 
I have all the correct tools & they stripped it as its solid,
It looks to be a cheap shimano as one cup end is plastic
 
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Most of the parts you trying to drill have had so sort of heat treatment , to only way to drill it out is with a solid carbide drill , normal HSS drills are not hard enough :shock:
 
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Before any more of the teeth get chewed up id try using penetrating fluid, your extractor secured with a bolt through the axle so it cant slide off the teeth ( this is key ). A large wrench with extension. Secure the frame properly using a stand ( a strong mate holding it ) and put cloth around the tubes to protect it from the clamps. It should come out. I have never had a bb that couldn't be removed using this method, including those rusted solid after 25yrs in a wet shed :lol:

Post up pics of the process you do use in the end if you can :wink:
 
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Is the frame Ali ? if so warm it up with a heat gun , don't go too mad , if its a steel frame you can go a little hotter , then go for the big stuff , good luck :wink:
 
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I used a blow torch to heat my kili bb area but that had teeth on the bb. Wouldn't come out without it mind.
 
You could try using a bolt to hikd the took in place then large breaker bar.

... you are turning the drive side clockwise to undo??

If frame is not steel, weld a socket on to the bb cup, the heat may help unstick it a bit, if steel, you may weld the socket to the frame making problem worse.

All the stuff is tempered steel so drilling wont be easy.
The hole saw suggestion has potential but the hardness of the cup may defeat you.
Id try a diamond hole saw, see ebay, that are for cutting ceramic tiles, if you are lucky there will be one deep enough ti go over the spindke but you can cut down the spindle with an angle grinder.

Clamp frame in a drill press as you dont want the tool wandering into the bb itself.

Forget shop, be cheaper to cut out the bb and fit a new one by a frame builder.
 
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Please don't try welding a nut to the shell , just done a job on a porsche and some one tried to weld a nut on the stud and turned it rock hard ( high carbon steal ) , the only way out was to drill the stud out with a solid carbide drill ( still chipped one drill ) :?
 
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royboy2cv":2mibr2od said:
Please don't try welding a nut to the shell , just done a job on a porsche and some one tried to weld a nut on the stud and turned it rock hard ( high carbon steal ) , the only way out was to drill the stud out with a solid carbide drill ( still chipped one drill ) :?

Worked great for me before
Tack weld nut onto bb. Worked a treat.


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Re bottom bracket..

Wd40 and gt85 wont do anything to loosen the bond. Coke will but needs a really long Time to effect it. You need proper penetrating oil applied 2-3 time a day down seattube and from outside frame.

Heat works wonders too on stuck bb but keep moving the blow touch else paint will be effected. And no good on alu frames..
 
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