lacing a wheel

FluffyChicken":2ydi2iz6 said:
for 12mm nipple btw.

That's a key point as companies like CRC send out spokes with 14mm nipples and sjscycles send out 12mm, which could make all your rounding up and down a bit pointless!

Personally I always round down as there is nothing worse that tightening all the spokes only to find they have run out of thread and are still loose.
 
Wow turns out the measurements my LBS provided were WAY off. I've read to never trust the dimentions provided by the manufacturer, but I've actually watched this guy measuring my rim and he got it all wrong. The inside diameter is actually 595mm (measured in 9 places and averaged) and the thickness of the aluminium is 3mm, which makes for an ERD of 601 instead of 592!!!

With these new data the calculator tells me I need 287.0 and 285.6 spokes. I think the difference in ERD definition is negligible, isn't it? I mean the difference is less than the thickness of the nipple head, and with all this rounding up or down this tiny difference can be ignored, no?
 
PIGEON":1mtzjxr9 said:
Wow turns out the measurements my LBS provided were WAY off. I've read to never trust the dimentions provided by the manufacturer, but I've actually watched this guy measuring my rim and he got it all wrong. The inside diameter is actually 595mm (measured in 9 places and averaged) and the thickness of the aluminium is 3mm, which makes for an ERD of 601 instead of 592!!!

With these new data the calculator tells me I need 287.0 and 285.6 spokes. I think the difference in ERD definition is negligible, isn't it? I mean the difference is less than the thickness of the nipple head, and with all this rounding up or down this tiny difference can be ignored, no?


To measure ERD, place a nipple in opposite holes, then measure the distance between the end of the nipples. Then add on the length of both nipples to that measurement


Repeat around and average.
erd.png
 
it's a Rigida rim, don't know which type because I removed the stickers directly after I bought it the day before yesterday and forgot what they said. It's 20mm high and if I recall correctly the type was three letters and a numer, maybe a 7
 
By 28" wheel do you mean 700c ? if so that has been confusing me (as you're in the MTB section and I would expect that in the road section*)

Shame you cannot remember the name as it helps, looking at the list you take Rigida's Nipple Seat Diameter and add 3mm (for nipple height).
Build first, Vanity later ;)



*not sure why but that where I've always placed them as they're not MTB's, though not road.)
 
FluffyChicken":1w9mfxef said:
(as they usually come in the even number sizes. 1.3 mm for the lenght of the nipple is no a lot compared to teh expense of topping out on the nipple)

for 12mm nipple btw.

sorry fella they come in 1mm increments not just even numbers its just some bike shops and online retailers are to tight to do what i do and stock ever size to make sure things are right from the off :wink: :wink: :lol: :lol:


mr pigeon you need to work out using each of the sites different formualers but remember they all work on the equasion of pie r cubed or pie r4 :wink: if you get really stuck i can build it for you for a fair price :wink:
 
cannondale king":3b0iiknn said:
FluffyChicken":3b0iiknn said:
(as they usually come in the even number sizes. 1.3 mm for the lenght of the nipple is no a lot compared to teh expense of topping out on the nipple)

for 12mm nipple btw.

sorry fella they come in 1mm increments not just even numbers its just some bike shops and online retailers are to tight to do what i do and stock ever size to make sure things are right from the off :wink: :wink: :lol: :lol:


mr pigeon you need to work out using each of the sites different formualers but remember they all work on the equasion of pie r cubed or pie r4 :wink: if you get really stuck i can build it for you for a fair price :wink:


Hence the usually ;-)

Oh and Pigeon, Mr 'dale Queen here is recommended by retrobikes that have had wheels build by him.
 
hehe thanks for the offer but I'm kind of on a budget, that's why I'm trying to do it myself, plus I'd like to learn more about wheel building. I feel like I'm already succeeding in that part although I haven't laced a single spoke yet :lol:

btw I found the receipt in my bag, the rim's a Rigida SHP6. Here's a picture I found on the interwebz of a bike running them
http://www.cooltra.de/look-carbon/look- ... 2006-8.jpg

On a more on-topic note though :P I seem to need spokes of 287.0 and 285.6 length. Might I get away with ordering 36 286mm spokes?
 
PIGEON":2q5fva5s said:
btw I found the receipt in my bag, the rim's a Rigida SHP6. ...


The link I gave has a database and say Rigida SHP has ERD is 603mm (600 Rigida Nipple Seat diameter + that 3mm for the nipples I guess)

which gives

* My hub, undefined
* Right flange ø: 61
* Left flange ø: 61
* Centre to ø: 18.5
* Centre to ø: 33.5
* Spoke hole ø: 2.5

Rim

* Rigida SHP (ERD is Rigida's Nipple Seat Dia + 3mm for nipples)
* Effective rim ⌀: 603
* Offset spoke bed: 0

Spoke length
for 36 spokes
Cross Right Left Tension L/R
0 270.4 271.8 55%
1 272.4 273.8 55%
2 278.2 279.6 55%
3 286.8 288.2 55%
4 297.0 298.4 55%



so 286/288 ?


isn't this fun.


---
side/
Yesterday I dismantled my old M231 rim on Suntour XC Comp MD rear hub (after removing the feehub eventually)
Re-lacing in onto an M900 hub (it should just work, finger crossed)

Got drive side leading in all ok, put non-drive side leading in and something is major wrong... drive side now sticks out lot's.

Puzzlement and measuring later and some calcs I work out none drive side was laced up 2x :|
15+ years of riding it and I never noticed.

:lol:
 

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