Kona Humu - new frame. Component issues...

[Dobbsie]

I say component issues, it's more like (lack of) knowledge issues...
Hi All, I have a very well used Humu frame on its way to me. I have always wanted one AND NOW ITS MINE!!!!
i think it's around a 1995 (no disc tabs).
I didn't anticipate just how difficult it is to figure out what to put on it.
I have a 95 Cindercone which I have upgraded to M737 mostly so I can use some stuff.

Difficult bits;
rear wheel - 120mm spacing, right? what are the options? I can find nothing. I have some M737 hubs, can these be altered for use? Is there a pair of wheels I can buy, there doesn't appear to be anything on forums and I'd sooner avoid new heavy poor quality chinese stuff if I can.
BB/crank; I have a middleburn crank that would look great on it. A square taper BB and I'm good I think? Anyone have any idea which size to order by any chance please?
Stem; I have settled (I think) on a set of Humpert Cruiser bars, what type of stem will be right on this bike? I'd love to avoid a quill if I can help it!
Headset; I'm assuming a 1" head tube?

I'd like to build it to look nice and ride nice. It's just for family rides and posing. Nothing too taxing will happen on it.

Any help would be very gratefully received, thanks in advance.

 

[iveto1983]

Hi,

It’s difficult to say definitively without photos, the rear hub spacing could be 110 or 120. I’ve seen both depending on year (my 97 a’ha is 110, my brother’s 06 humu is 120). Likewise the bb shell could be bmx (American) or standard bsa threaded. If it’s American you can buy an adapter to use a square taper bb and Middleburn cranks. I seem to recall Middleburn require 107 or 113 length bbs. Probably for a single chainring you’ll be ok with a 107.
The headset should be 1 1/8” and it’s the forks that dictate if you need a threaded or threadless headset. Have you got any forks?
Most people seem to use a bmx stem or short mtb stem, but a bmx stem limits your bar choices to 22.2mm clamp diameter. I have a Thomson bmx stem and Nitto cruiser bars on mine, my brother has nitto threadless bullmoose on his.
I’m open to being corrected by someone more knowledgeable, but I don’t think you can reduce a cassette/freehub down to 120mm spaced. It’s usually an older hub for freewheels that can be shortened. I’d recommend looking for track hubs (to take a freewheel) if it turns out to be 120, and bmx hubs if it’s 110. You’ll probably struggle to find new wheels that are 26” with a 110 or 120mm rear hub, so it might be quicker to buy the rim/hubs separately and have them built up.

Hope that helps.

 

[Dobbsie]

Thanks Iveto. The seller (who seems like a good type) has said the the rear hub measures at 135mm. I thought only the disc humus were 135?
It could have been splayed, and to be perfectly honest it will have a very easy life so it's probably no biggie.
I'm also pretty sure he has standard shimano 24mm cups in the BB?

 

[klunkrider]

I had a curved top tube, non disc Humu that was 135mm, no idea what year it was.

 

[MattiThundrrr]

The earliest Humu had a coaster brake, no canti posts. According to this, 1995 had 120mm hubs, BMX spacinghttps://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/rear-dropout-width-on-kona-humuhumunukunukuapuaa.329953/

 

[Dobbsie]

Think I've got to teh bottom of it. The frame (chain stay bridge) seems to have been adapted to take a 135mm. Not ideal, but at least it hasn't just been splayed and it's not going to see any action from me. Makes sourcing wheels easier too!
Thanks for the advice all!