Kona Explosif - build advice needed (PHOTOS ADDED)

CTK may have a point there, but in practice the 95 frames are quite rare so you have to take what you can get, especially in the 'substantial' size that you require and especially if you want the price to be 'nice'.

I think they had to put up the price quite a bit between 94 and 95 (they did in the US anyway), presumably because the Columbus Max tubes were very expensive. This may account for them being a bit rarer than other years. Same tubes as the Serotta T-Max of course, and I think Roberts used them for a while, but I don't think any other large-scale manufacturer ever used them, on account of cost. Headtube has recently bought one that he is the process of renovating, and made a thread in Readers Bikes. The bi-ovalising strengthens the tube sufficiently that a 7-4-7 top tube can be used, which is thinner-gauge and lighter than any Tange mtb tube. The down tube was a 8-5-8, still pretty light and the 95-97 Explosifs were the lightest Explosif frames they ever built.

And to go back to your question, it was built for a Marzocchi XCR and then Judy XC the following year, so anything around the 60mm mark would be fine. I think RC36s used to be either 70mm or 90mm, but were a little long for their travel. I always favour Z2s myself, I think they suit Kona characteristics perfectly, but I guess that's not retro enough really. (And I know the mighty moderators have to set a good example!)
 
Thanks again, you're right about the RC36s being overly long for their travel so may stick with the RC30s.

Anyway, here are some photos of how it looks. If I do respray then I'll see about getting a top tube cable guide added.

But if respray, what colour? And colour match the RC30 legs or just have them black? Suggestions needed!
 

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Leave it original and throw a chainstay protector (store bought or homemade) on the driveside chainstay. The rest of the paint is fine and adds character. It's nice to see an old bike that's been used as it was intended. Personally, I would be quite sad to see this frame painted over. :cry:
 
glad you`re pleased with the bike ed, i`m chuffed that its gone to a "good home", nice to see the interest from other members, i`ll look on the forum regulary now and see how your projects progressing, happy new year
 
Its hard to resist a respray isnt it?! But I agree with Kona Paul you should resist...

(I resprayed a bike last year and it looked great, now it doesnt and I want another respray whats the point?)

Looking at it what I would want to do is wrap some black tape around the chainstay, put some black P2s on it, some light weight wheels and you're sorted. Get some frame saver in it too.

Will be lush!
 
Can I just put up a suggestion, and hope not to offend anybody in the process?

When a mountain bike is thirteen years old, it looks a bit odd if it's all perfect and shiny. Anybody looking at you riding it might think 'he must be a bit of a fair weather cyclist, he's hardly ever taken that thing out of the shed. Perhaps a hairdresser?'

Whereas if it's missing the odd bit of paint in honourable places and the parts are all old but working fine, it looks somehow cool, as if you've owned it for the whole of those thirteen years and you've been through a lot together. As in, a lot of bushes. And you just casually say 'oh yes, the Explosif', and people want one.

Actually, now I think of it, where's the Messiah to back me up?
 
ededwards":1tfkikbn said:
Thanks again, you're right about the RC36s being overly long for their travel so may stick with the RC30s.
How long's that RC30? If it's one of the earlier ones (385mm a-c) it'll steepen things up a lot. I ran a short RC30 on my '95 Kilauea for a while, and it makes the handling very quick indeed, as well as bringing the weight balance a long way forward. The P2 for a '95/'96 Kona is 410mm axle-to-crown.
 
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