Kona Explosif - build advice needed (PHOTOS ADDED)

[ededwards]

I prefer the paint on the bike to the paint on the table!

Goddamn, it gets more Singletrackworld by the day! And please don't point out the table to my wife or I'll have a paintbrush in my hand in sub zero temperatures tomorrow (and not to touch up the frame either).

Lots of good points about respraying, or rather not - pretty much matches my own thoughts that patina is king but I thought if I was to respray now would be the time to do it. Framesaver, perhaps some touch up paint and the build starts this weekend. Might still have an extra cable guide added to the top tube though otherwise it's full length cable and zip tie which isn't the greatest look.

Thanks again, you're right about the RC36s being overly long for their travel so may stick with the RC30s.

How long's that RC30? If it's one of the earlier ones (385mm a-c) it'll steepen things up a lot. I ran a short RC30 on my '95 Kilauea for a while, and it makes the handling very quick indeed, as well as bringing the weight balance a long way forward. The P2 for a '95/'96 Kona is 410mm axle-to-crown.

Good point, I did wonder, too idly, about fork length on a 1995 frame and now I know I can check and make sure I use some of the right length.

 

[Anthony]

I prefer the paint on the bike to the paint on the table!

Goddamn, it gets more Singletrackworld by the day! And please don't point out the table to my wife or I'll have a paintbrush in my hand in sub zero temperatures tomorrow (and not to touch up the frame either.

It was a serious point actually. Most of us have comfortable old things like that table, and they don't bother us a bit. Then we buy a cycle frame and we think 'oh my God, it isn't perfect, must spend £150 on a complete respray and new decals.'

And then we're nervous about stacking it, and shout at our children if they go anywhere near it, etc.

 

[ededwards]

Sorry, it was the that lead me astray.

Good point about being overly concerned about paint when pristine but not really worried when there are a load of scratches, after all, what's one more?

 

[kanerdog1x1]

get mark or me to put a cable stop on it, only takes 10 mins.....
i would go with project two forks in semi gloss black, then you could put syncros stem an seatpost on it and it would match

 

[ededwards]

get mark or me to put a cable stop on it, only takes 10 mins.....

Good stuff, might pop in tomorrow

 

[Andy R]

Thanks again, you're right about the RC36s being overly long for their travel so may stick with the RC30s.

How long's that RC30? If it's one of the earlier ones (385mm a-c) it'll steepen things up a lot. I ran a short RC30 on my '95 Kilauea for a while, and it makes the handling very quick indeed, as well as bringing the weight balance a long way forward. The P2 for a '95/'96 Kona is 410mm axle-to-crown.

I'm running rigid forks with an A/C dimension of 440mm on my '95 Explosif. I don't find them detrimental to the handling at all, but then maybe I just have strange tastes in handling (but I don't think so...)

I obviously do have strange tastes in colour schemes however, 'cos I resprayed mine. It didn't have much paint left anyway....

 

[guybe]

Maybe I am the odd one out as I would have the frame resprayed while others is telling you not do it and leave it as marked, I think it seem pointless to put new parts on that frame as it will looked out of place, maybe put tatty and marked parts on it to blend in better with the frame.

Buy an old classic car, if it's scratched and dented, your first reaction is to restore back to it's beauty so you and others will admire and enjoy the car, while a tatty car wont be looked at twice, this is my view.

You got a bargain there and I think you will enjoy the frame whatever you wished to do with it, enjoy the project.

 

[sunchaser]

Personally I'd go for the respray (same colour mind) I do like to see a well used frame but, It's like wearing someome else's battling scars.. you have'nt got the stories to back them up. Which ever way you decide to go you won't be disappionted

 

[legrandefromage]

Can I just put up a suggestion, and hope not to offend anybody in the process?

When a mountain bike is thirteen years old, it looks a bit odd if it's all perfect and shiny. Anybody looking at you riding it might think 'he must be a bit of a fair weather cyclist, he's hardly ever taken that thing out of the shed. Perhaps a hairdresser?'

Whereas if it's missing the odd bit of paint in honourable places and the parts are all old but working fine, it looks somehow cool, as if you've owned it for the whole of those thirteen years and you've been through a lot together. As in, a lot of bushes. And you just casually say 'oh yes, the Explosif', and people want one.

Actually, now I think of it, where's the Messiah to back me up?

I'm the hairdresser on the mint 13 year old bike spanking the arse of the £4k carbon full susser...

 

[kaiser]

I'm in a similar position and my decision came down too £££, decided to build and ride as cheap as possible and spend on one of my other builds.