Takingabreak
Dave Yates Fan
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so now it will look like this?
It Gravel Jim........89 Marin build
- Thread starter Tootyred
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Next is to work out some gearing. So options are
2x with 36/26 front...but i don't have a compact front mech and mtb wont play nicely with the shifters, but fiddleable over just 2 cogs or making a new cable tag.
3x but, tbh, its not really the style im after, but simple to execute with existing xt bits.
1x but then I might be short of gears or have huge gaps...but it might look cool...for a change....and I've got a few odd bits that might do the trick.
Hummmm. Need to think on that.
2x with 36/26 front...but i don't have a compact front mech and mtb wont play nicely with the shifters, but fiddleable over just 2 cogs or making a new cable tag.
3x but, tbh, its not really the style im after, but simple to execute with existing xt bits.
1x but then I might be short of gears or have huge gaps...but it might look cool...for a change....and I've got a few odd bits that might do the trick.
Hummmm. Need to think on that.
Takingabreak
Dave Yates Fan
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I went 2x on my Yates, I just can't get on with the gearing, it's going to 3x fairly soon
But I think Gravel Jim may as well be 1x while you try out the whole concept.
But I think Gravel Jim may as well be 1x while you try out the whole concept.
Decided to go 1x at the moment and see how i get on. Im using an old suntour xc pro crank thats been knocking about. Put it on a 113mm bb, rather than the 124mm needed, as there is no inner ring. Also means i can use the outer ring position which looks tidy ish.
The second option is to swap to an xtr m900 that will sit on the same bb, but correctly spaced. So it could run either 2x or 3x.
2 is quite appealing.....but we will see.
I would need to run it on a modern 2x (36/38 max) front mech, but they are dirt cheap as everyone seems to be chucking them out. That way it will clear the chainstay.
The second option is to swap to an xtr m900 that will sit on the same bb, but correctly spaced. So it could run either 2x or 3x.
2 is quite appealing.....but we will see.
I would need to run it on a modern 2x (36/38 max) front mech, but they are dirt cheap as everyone seems to be chucking them out. That way it will clear the chainstay.
Frankenorange
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When i was TTing back in the 80's i dont remember chain drop being a thing at all. Certainly not with a 5-6 speed corn cob anyway. As cassettes have got wider and chain ALOT more flexible it is definitely a problem even on smooth-ish roads.
I experimented with a non clutch Sram Force rear mech, on my 1x , and it was ok apart from changing gear onto the smallest cog. I watched it closely and the chain would get a whip on , in the horizontal plane , that would send the chain off the chainring. Otherwise it was ok even at an extreme angle , when in the lowest gear.
I ditched that mech and went back to the clutched mechs and no problemos. No narrow wide chainring required. To be super sure of not dropping i also fitted a wee ZTTO chain guide, but i have run without it and didn't get any drops. It mounts on a braze on mech mount, or an adapter.
Another thing in my favour is i use an 11 speed cassette , but i ditched the 11t. 50/13 is enough for 30mph at a sensible cadence and allows for some tweaking of the cassette position, for chainlines, if you make it narrower.
I suspect that alot of the problems, with drops, are actually down to the 10/11/12/13 speed chains being so flexible side to side as much as traditional chain slap being the reason.
I would put money on it that an old school chunky chain on a 6-8 cassette might be problem free off road as long as the rear mech has very good tension. No chain guide , no clutch and no NW chainring required.
Eta: on the subject of clutched mechs; in my experience, with Sram anyway, is there is an increase in resistance to pedalling. It isn't noticeable with your legs, but on a stand when using hands to turn the cranks there is a difference between clutch and no clutch. It is quite noticeable by hand though the marketing says not. Maybe this is why, even with drops being a problem, the road mechs used by pros are clutchless. Apart from Lidl Trek who were very successful in the classics with there road-mtb mullet setup.
I experimented with a non clutch Sram Force rear mech, on my 1x , and it was ok apart from changing gear onto the smallest cog. I watched it closely and the chain would get a whip on , in the horizontal plane , that would send the chain off the chainring. Otherwise it was ok even at an extreme angle , when in the lowest gear.
I ditched that mech and went back to the clutched mechs and no problemos. No narrow wide chainring required. To be super sure of not dropping i also fitted a wee ZTTO chain guide, but i have run without it and didn't get any drops. It mounts on a braze on mech mount, or an adapter.
Another thing in my favour is i use an 11 speed cassette , but i ditched the 11t. 50/13 is enough for 30mph at a sensible cadence and allows for some tweaking of the cassette position, for chainlines, if you make it narrower.
I suspect that alot of the problems, with drops, are actually down to the 10/11/12/13 speed chains being so flexible side to side as much as traditional chain slap being the reason.
I would put money on it that an old school chunky chain on a 6-8 cassette might be problem free off road as long as the rear mech has very good tension. No chain guide , no clutch and no NW chainring required.
Eta: on the subject of clutched mechs; in my experience, with Sram anyway, is there is an increase in resistance to pedalling. It isn't noticeable with your legs, but on a stand when using hands to turn the cranks there is a difference between clutch and no clutch. It is quite noticeable by hand though the marketing says not. Maybe this is why, even with drops being a problem, the road mechs used by pros are clutchless. Apart from Lidl Trek who were very successful in the classics with there road-mtb mullet setup.
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Oddly, my "modern" (2013) mountainbike which i go jumping, bomb hole diving and generally doing stupid things in the forest on, has a 1x 10 conversion on it. Even smashing it about I never really had too many issues with chain drop, bit it did happen on the very very odd occasion. I fitted a raceface a narrow wide in the end and never had another issue with it.
Im going to use the 1x for the moment, see how it goes and probably fit an old rohloff chain keeper if needed.
Im going to use the 1x for the moment, see how it goes and probably fit an old rohloff chain keeper if needed.
Takingabreak
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The top picture has reminded me of how uncomfortable I found the hoods to be when they were angled like that
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