Hub Threads and Rear S-A AW Hub Lock-Up

HPL

Dirt Disciple
I have a 1970 Raleigh Sports with perfect threads on both hub axles and nuts. I had removed the front hex nuts and replaced with some old wing nuts I had laying about. I do not know what bike the wing nuts originally came from and they are not marked. I used them vice the original nuts due to transporting bike in a Mini Cooper and always having to remove the front wheel to store the bike. Unfortunately, I partially stripped one wing nut; still usable due to removing a washer and grabbing enough good threads (but not optimal!). The wing nuts are alloy, and without any brass or steel threaded insert making threads easier to strip. I assumed they must have been from a fairly old race bike to be all aluminum. They fit the hub threads properly, not at all loosely, and certainly not too tight. I need to know what the hub threads are in order to ensure that when I replace them I order the correct parts for front (and rear); but not without inserts if alloy. Possible to bore out my alloy wing nuts and install correctly threaded inserts?? The hubs are original to the bike; rear hub is S-A "AW" dated 69 13; front hub Raleigh OE (S-A?). Are hubs Whitworth threads? Are there wing nuts available for that thread style if required? I have have other wing nuts (different sized; front and rear?) that fit early French hubs ('30s--'60s), and others fitting Italian hubs; but none will fit the English hubs (front or rear; tried on 1954 Hercules, 1965 Robin Hood, and 1970 Raleigh). All my other wing nuts are "steel", or have brass threaded inserts.

While riding the Robin Hood I hit a speed bump hard enough to bounce me off the saddle (though not off the bike), probably only 12-13 Kph. The rear hub locked up to forward motion. I got off bike and turned crank in reverse without issue but it felt a little rough. I was able to get forward motion, but it locked up again and I partially popped a chain link. End of ride! I rode as a "foot scooter" on one pedal all the way back home. Any thoughts before I tear it apart, I have never had this happen. The speed bump definitely was part of the cause. I ride a Raleigh Sports with same model rear hub much harder and faster both on and off road (even used for a race with clipless pedals), and have never had anything like this happen regardless of the bumps and jumps. Granted the Sports hub has lower mileage (I assume) than the Hood. The Hood shifted without issue prior to the incident

Thanks!!
 

keithglos

Senior Retro Guru
I would expect the front hub axle to be 5 / 16 inch 26 threads per inch cycle thread. SA rear were 7 / 16, standard rear 3 / 8 26 TPI.

I can't imagine anyone making a repair kit due to the original low price of wingnuts, and the lack of depth of material.

Many continental hubs match the British standard, but QR usually were 9 and 10mm by 26 TPI.

Was your problem due to a freewheel jamming? I once had a Regina freewheel jammed by the pawl digging in to the ratchet.

Keith
 

HPL

Dirt Disciple
keithglos said:
Was your problem due to a freewheel jamming? I once had a Regina freewheel jammed by the pawl digging in to the ratchet.

Keith

Thanks Keith,
The bike has a 3 speed internally geared hub, AW model. I have not torn the hub apart yet since I have 2 spare complete rear wheels and a couple of loose hubs. The bike got severely jarred when I hit the bump and an obvious odd noise occurred simultaneously. No telling how many miles are on that hub, but I still suspect the bump caused the problem considering its flawless function beforehand.

Howard
 

keithglos

Senior Retro Guru
The AW is very simple inside. The left side end plate is obviously left hand thread, there may be no need to remove the right end plate, but if you do they are right hand thread 2 start, so mark the position before you move it. It will loosen with a bit of gentle chiselling.
However, I always preferred all gears in direct drive.

Keith
 

jim haseltine

Devout Dirtbag
If there are no flats on the LH end plate then it's pressed in - even if it isn't, the only reason to remove it is if the bearing surface or the pawl teeth are damaged. With a pressed plate I wouldn't bother as a replacement hub shell is easy to come by and rebuilding a wheel is easier than pressing home a new endplate. Difficult to guess at what is wrong inside the hub but I suspect that something is broken and debris is jamming the planet gears, although I've seen the axle broken at the sliding key slot. Remove the left hand cone and bearing then unscrew the RH end plate, remove the internal as one piece then strip it - the damage should be obvious.
 

HPL

Dirt Disciple
jim haseltine said:
If there are no flats on the LH end plate then it's pressed in - even if it isn't, the only reason to remove it is if the bearing surface or the pawl teeth are damaged. With a pressed plate I wouldn't bother as a replacement hub shell is easy to come by and rebuilding a wheel is easier than pressing home a new endplate. Difficult to guess at what is wrong inside the hub but I suspect that something is broken and debris is jamming the planet gears, although I've seen the axle broken at the sliding key slot. Remove the left hand cone and bearing then unscrew the RH end plate, remove the internal as one piece then strip it - the damage should be obvious.

Thank you,
I do have a spare wheel already, and a couple of hubs (I think '67 & '72). I do not mind tearing the hub apart, but what you said about the broken axle makes sense considering the hit the rear took. I need to check the rim, although it was not obviously damaged upon initial inspection.
 
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