How to true Shimano ‘opposite lock’ wheels?

[doctor-bond]

Any special tricks to trueing these bassackward puppies?

 

[2manyoranges]

ah the 'Preztel Meisters'

I had an interesting experience on these. Pothole....argh...can't avoid. BANG! Christ! rear wheels locks and I skate an S down the road, leaving a rubber trail behind me. One spoke gone and wheel locked against the side of the frame. Walk of Shame home. At least to where my partner picks me up in the car.....

Madison no longer stocked spokes for these at that time, maybe five years ago

They are light, sound wheels but need care in tensioning. Do NOT over tension.

Each spoke pulls the wheel OUT TOWARDS IT - to true for 'lateral wobble'
Each pair of spokes has two opposites in each case - true opposite two spokes and adjacent two sets of spokes for 'circularity'

But start by putting release fluid on nipples and leaving for 24 hrs
Then investigate WHY it's out of true
Check all tensions and worry about those that are very tight
Keeping those in mind try slackening the spokes which are pulling those into tension

See if that gets you where you want to be

Then check all spokes for tension and tension all slightly if they need it

Bear in mind the late and great Bill Rayment's Rule of Tension: 'there are three tensions for spokes. Too loose. Too tight. And just right'
Thanks Bill.

 

[doctor-bond]

Thanks - they do look like a solution to a problem that never existed: I haven’t had a tinker yet, but increasing tension would seem to want to twist the rim and effect circularity before helping any lateral movement. Which would suggest that left and right spokes need to be almost exactly the same tension - okay on the front but the rear isn’t dishless.

Time to FAFO.

 

[doctor-bond]

Aw, bloody hell - they need a 4.3mm dedicated spoke wrench. Can feel my “being arsed” ebbing away.

Anyone want some Shimano wheels? rear a little out of true, front hardly at all. Barely used Conti tyres included.

 

[bikeworkshop]

You can make a spoke wrench for these by grinding a slot in a piece of steel, or if the nipples aren't too seized, use a small adjustable.

Often you need to reduce tension on one side while increasing on the other.

 

[retrobate]

Aw, bloody hell - they need a 4.3mm dedicated spoke wrench. Can feel my “being arsed” ebbing away.

Anyone want some Shimano wheels? rear a little out of true, front hardly at all. Barely used Conti tyres included.

An 11/64" AF spanner may fit (4.37mm)

 

[doctor-bond]

Quick update for the record: I ponied up a tenner for the correct wrench and had a tinker. Well, they respond very nicely to a fettle and are now nice and true.

Just goes to show - you should never judge a spoke by its spanner ……

 

[bikeworkshop]

Quick update for the record: I ponied up a tenner for the correct wrench and had a tinker. Well, they respond very nicely to a fettle and are now nice and true.

Just goes to show - you should never judge a spoke by its spanner ……

Alloy nips are larger, and hub mounted tends to make them larger still - perhaps the shear force is greater, or Friction against the hub requiring more force to turn?
There's a lot to be said for 32 evenly spaced steel spokes into brass nipples in the rim - but alternative solutions are fun.
My no1 mtb has the xtr equivalents,

Here it is today:View attachment 864248
Tubeless tyres, low pressure - felt wrong on tarmac but grippy offroad.
I wasn't riding in that gear btw, stuck it in big2big as I was descending fast down a cow-puddled bridleway

but I've never needed to true them!