how do you make a shimano cleat into a onza ho cleat

ishaw":12xc291r said:
Did anyone get to the bottom of filing cleats down? Have pedals, need cleats!
there is a thread on here somewhere that shows you how to do it... but i cant find it.
basically just file the wellgo cleats down untill they look like the onzas..
look at the pic on p1 of this thread....
 
tintin40":1k4k1ckn said:
i now have 4 pairs of these 3 cro mo 1 ti this thread has been helpful. Any advice on removing old parts to fit new parts would be good. :D

I have the Ti but the axles are worn down, the Copper/Oil Bushing thing (self oiling) of course rubs against the Ti axle by design. Not good and hence why play develops in these. The tiny bolt under the end cap makes the axle come out. The bearing can be knocked out and replaced, I forget the number of it though. You should be able knock the self oiling bearing out and replace it too.
As for the elastomer, just unscrew the two bolts that go through them and too the plate and vice versa. You can shim the elastomers, change them, mix and match. Widen the hole the cleat clips in toif you want more float or in fact make your own and reduce float. You could probably design your own plate to work with Shimano cleats better.
Try your own choice of elastomer, eraser to get your desired spring rate. You can alter preload with the bolt and or shims as mentioned above.

In fact the only thing that I find lets these down it the axle wear causing them to squeak ;) Probably not so bad with the steel axles though.

Weight, they where light BITD but by today's standards even steel axled Shimano cleat compatibles are down at this sub 300g level

243.JPG
 
I have the Ti but the axles are worn down, the Copper/Oil Bushing thing (self oiling) of course rubs against the Ti axle by design. Not good and hence why play develops in these. The tiny bolt under the end cap makes the axle come out. The bearing can be knocked out and replaced, I forget the number of it though. You should be able knock the self oiling bearing out and replace it too.
As for the elastomer, just unscrew the two bolts that go through them and too the plate and vice versa. You can shim the elastomers, change them, mix and match. Widen the hole the cleat clips in toif you want more float or in fact make your own and reduce float. You could probably design your own plate to work with Shimano cleats better.
Try your own choice of elastomer, eraser to get your desired spring rate. You can alter preload with the bolt and or shims as mentioned above.

In fact the only thing that I find lets these down it the axle wear causing them to squeak ;) Probably not so bad with the steel axles though.

Weight, they where light BITD but by today's standards even steel axled Shimano cleat compatibles are down at this sub 300g level

[/quote]

Thanks FC explains why i can't stop the tiny play on the right side. The bearing are 686Z cost me £2.00 each. The brass bushes are £1.75 also UK stockiest they known as oilite 10x14x8 size
These ti pedal are still lighter than modern XT-R. But if you fit ti axels to the XT-R then they are a lot lighter. I have them because they are not Shimano which also is why i had the Ti HO BITD
 
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