Help with a 96 Kona Kilauea?

[gfizeek]

Hi all. Newb here.

I just picked up a used '96 Kilauea, and unfortunately was in too much of a hurry to notice a significant click when I pedal. The click only occurs when I first get on the pedals, or when I suddenly put more pressure on them while riding. If I ride gently on smooth pavement, there's no click.

LBS says it's probably the crank. I pulled both cranks off. The drive-side crank looks good fine, but the other side's square-taper socket is definitely a bit deformed. Could this be causing a click, or is it likely coming from somewhere else (e.g., bottom bracket)?

What are my options at this point? Can I upgrade both the bottom bracket and crankset to something newer and more available, or am I stuck digging around for square-taper cranks? What's the best way to tell which kind of square-taper I need?

I'm new at this stuff, but I'm eager to learn. Thanks for your patience!

 

[haggis]

Kilahoohaa

Stick on the crank and BB of your choice mate, x-type even if you wish as will be 68mm shell and english thread anyway

 

[jimihendrix]

Only other thing you will need to consider is the axle length so that the cranks are in line with the cassette and will also clear the chainstays, this will depend on the cranks you use as sometimes axle length has to be changed when changing cranks.

But it's possible to upgrade to ISIS (or whatever the new fangled contraptions are called ), as Haggis said the threads in the frame are standard.

And of course this is fine if you dont want to keep the bike original.

 

[Harryburgundy]

Oh.....the dreaded click :shock:

Could be so many things..I'm sure all of us have spent hours looking for the cause of the elusive 'click'.

Pedals (a usual for me), seat rails, crank, chainring bolts...the list goes on.

Sounds like your crank is a wee bit knackered so you probably want to replace that, but personally I don't think newer is better. Again, my personal opinion, but I really don't like ISIS and X-Type arn't fool proof either.

Don't suppose you can borrow someone elses crank etc to see if the click goes ... even though it sounds like you need a new crank, it is not guaranteed to remove the click.

Personally I would stick to square taper...ask around here and I would have thought you would find some nice replacement stuff.....lovely looking Middleburns here a few days ago for a good price.


Cheers, Carl

 

[Anthony]

If that’s the original Curve crank, I have exactly the same problem! Pity it’s not the other way around, or I’d make you an offer. My thoughts would be:

First grease the bb taper, replace the cranks and tighten them up big time (I use a handlebar over the allen key for greater leverage) That has worked sometimes.

Second try a different lh crank just to check that that really is the problem (and if it worked, I’d keep it like that cos I’m a cheapskate)

Third if you really feel you need new cranks, Curve ones used a longer bb axle, so fitting say a period LX onto the existing bb will foul up your chainline a bit. If you change the bb, you can get LX square taper UN54, size 68/110, for £13 from Chain Reaction

Just my personal opinion, but the 96 Kilauea colour scheme has a real retro look and modern cranks would look daft, so I’d stick to period ones. Besides they’re cheaper. A 97 LX chainset in good condition should cost about £25 on eBay.

Of course, it might be nothing to do with the cranks anyway!

 

[Foolzgold]

Hi im about to throw out a set of Square Taper shimano STX cranks and 68 x 110 BB if you want them PM me, just pay for postage -

 

[DM]

Do a search on "Singletrack" for all the horror strories of new Isis and other external bottom brackets self-destructing. My advice: Avoid.

Unless you're "rad" enough to be bending square taper axles, I wouldn't bother "upgrading" to a newer type.

Welcome to retrobike, BTW!
From here on in, it just gets more expensive