Help a Novice

[Diver]

Hi there,

Recently came in to possession of a 1981 CB Italia which I'm restoring. (Thanks to CBGuy and dwscrimshaw for identifying it). Here's an album with some general pictures of it. http://imgur.com/a/PGJY0
I've a couple of specific questions which I'm hoping some of you guys can help with so I'll use this thread to ask them. I've never done this before so am learning as I go. I've stripped it back as far as I can but the seatpost and crankset are still on.

1) Any tips for removing this type of crank cap? It's very fragile and any attempt with long nose pliers just seems to damage them. Are they screwed in or just 'popped' in?

2) The seatpost bolt is the type with two hex head bolts on either side but no matter what I try both just seem to spin around together. I'm thinking it's probably threaded? Anything I can do before I have to break it off?

Thanks,

 

[cce]

i'd use a flathead screwdriver close to the size of the slot for the crank cap, and for the seat bolt, put one allen key in each side and use one to "brace" while you turn the other.


edited: actually it looks like the crank cap may take an allen key. You might have to sacrifice it if it's too fragile. they're only for show, and similar styles are readily available http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Crank-Arm-Dus ... TYf-GqtklQ

 

[Diver]

Sorry for the large images - can't seem to get the BBCode resize to work.

My next question is more open ended. Should I bother with the original wheels or is it wise to just buy new? They're in a pretty bad state - the spokes themselves are rusty but after going at them with some Hammerite they came up okay. The rims are in bad state as a result of wheeling it around without tyres on. The nipples are very rusty too.

Here's an album. http://imgur.com/a/pjhfA

I suppose this is a matter of personal preference so I guess I'm asking "what would you do?". Spend a lot of time getting the rust off or just replace them?

 

[Diver]

i'd use a flathead screwdriver close to the size of the slot for the crank cap, and for the seat bolt, put one allen key in each side and use one to "brace" while you turn the other.


edited: actually it looks like the crank cap may take an allen key. You might have to sacrifice it if it's too fragile. they're only for show, and similar styles are readily available http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Crank-Arm-Dus ... TYf-GqtklQ

Ah, I hadn't noticed it might take an allen key - will try it. Thanks.

I've tried two allen keys on the seat bolt but it won't budge. Maybe it just needs more elbow grease...

Cheers,

 

[cce]

I wouldn't be inclined to trust those spokes.

i'd soak everything you're trying to loosen in GT85 or similar. give it a few sprays every time you walk past it and leave it a while, then try

 

[rogerzilla]

Re:

If the spokes have rusted then they are either "rustless" (yes, really) or chromed. You don't want either on a decent bike. Get stainless spokes - the 1.8/1.6/1.8 butted ones look better on vintage bikes than 2.0/1.8/2.0, if you can find them. And get the right nipples...1.8 spokes in 2.0 nipples will strip just as the spoke is getting tight.

 

[Midlife]

The SR silver (and red) crank caps have no Allen key hole, just the biggest, flattest screwdriver you have

 

[Nob]

The SR silver (and red) crank caps have no Allen key hole, just the biggest, flattest screwdriver you have

Judging by the picture you can use a Allen Key also...

 

[Midlife]

The hole is indeed 4 sides of a hexagon but having been at the sharp end of these numerous times the 4 sides surprisingly quickly turn into two semi-circles

 

[NeilM]

Re:

On almost any nut, bolt, screw or crank cover you want to remove, including the seatpost, a good dose of Plus Gas will make the job much easier, used as suggested by cce.