Haro Impulse Comp 1990
- Thread starter johnv
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Re:
Been slowly putting stuff back on the bike these last few weeks. To be honest, but afraid of putting the decals on and screwing them up, so keeping busy with other things.
Only new things so far are a set of unbranded kalloy bars (from velosolo), and a new bottom bracket.
My hack for keeping the bb tool in place during assembly and removal is working well (inspired by the great lgf thread on this topic). Just a low profile bb tool, some space nut thing found from the local hardware shop, couple of big washers, and a spare crank bolt. Then I use the biggest size 32 wrench I could find... not let me down so far. Shiny new bb goes in with no problems and no risk of the tool slipping and damaging the shiny new paint.
Been slowly putting stuff back on the bike these last few weeks. To be honest, but afraid of putting the decals on and screwing them up, so keeping busy with other things.
Only new things so far are a set of unbranded kalloy bars (from velosolo), and a new bottom bracket.
My hack for keeping the bb tool in place during assembly and removal is working well (inspired by the great lgf thread on this topic). Just a low profile bb tool, some space nut thing found from the local hardware shop, couple of big washers, and a spare crank bolt. Then I use the biggest size 32 wrench I could find... not let me down so far. Shiny new bb goes in with no problems and no risk of the tool slipping and damaging the shiny new paint.
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Your BB tool ... 'arrangement' (I don't want to call it a bodge as it's so nicely done!) looks remarkably similar to mine 
So the big question is ... have you had the bottle to fit the decals yet...?!
So the big question is ... have you had the bottle to fit the decals yet...?!
Re:
A quick photo of where I am as of today.
In general I'm very pleased with the quality of the powder coat work. Nice even work, no problems with frame bolts, headset or bottom bracket. For some reason they did not mask off the brake bosses. Took me quite some time to get them cleaned up to get the u-brake moving nicely. Found that the best thing was to work with just the arm, the retaining plate and a bolt (no spring). Then just work on the boss until the bolt and retaining/spacer thing can be firmly tightened on to the boss and the brake arm can move freely.
A quick photo of where I am as of today.
In general I'm very pleased with the quality of the powder coat work. Nice even work, no problems with frame bolts, headset or bottom bracket. For some reason they did not mask off the brake bosses. Took me quite some time to get them cleaned up to get the u-brake moving nicely. Found that the best thing was to work with just the arm, the retaining plate and a bolt (no spring). Then just work on the boss until the bolt and retaining/spacer thing can be firmly tightened on to the boss and the brake arm can move freely.
elPedro666":20nkags2 said:Your BB tool ... 'arrangement' (I don't want to call it a bodge as it's so nicely done!) looks remarkably similar to mine
So the big question is ... have you had the bottle to fit the decals yet...?!
Thanks, I looked on the forums for a while for "inspiration"
No decals yet ... maybe next weekend
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The black looks great against that colour, really like it so far 
Think I'd prefer blackwall tyres (and proper tyres!), but that could change as more parts get fitted...
Look forward to the big decal moment (no pressure
)!
Think I'd prefer blackwall tyres (and proper tyres!), but that could change as more parts get fitted...Look forward to the big decal moment (no pressure
)!elPedro666":2zy4ahaj said:The black looks great against that colour, really like it so far
I have to say I agree. Put it in the living room this morning to "weigh up the job so far" ... It will be getting blackwall mtb tyres very shortly. Just need to see what I have in the garage
Re:
Love the progress so far. Saw ads for these in my 1991 MBA mags back-in-the-day, and always loved the look of these frames. My first "proper" bike was a '91 Miyata Elevation 400' bought new my Junior year of high school back in 1991. Had full 400LX components (including the shift/brake levers), and they always performed flawlessly as long as they were adjusted properly. If you do find a set of these shift/brake levers, my recommendation would be to flush them out with some kind of cleaner/degreaser (I use electronic contact cleaner), then spray a light lube in them (I used WD-40, works well enough) to clean out the old, hardened grease & get them moving properly. I'm also a stickler for attention-to-detail, as I see you are. Couple tricks I use are to match up the tire decal centered under the valve stem (always see this not done, one of my pet peeves), using a permanent marker to touch up those nicks in things painted black, and tucking that rear derailleur cable end up into the body of the derailleur for that clean look. I've even been known to go as far as turning the spoke nipples just that slight of a turn so that all the flats are facing out the same way - I know, I have a problem
Love the progress so far. Saw ads for these in my 1991 MBA mags back-in-the-day, and always loved the look of these frames. My first "proper" bike was a '91 Miyata Elevation 400' bought new my Junior year of high school back in 1991. Had full 400LX components (including the shift/brake levers), and they always performed flawlessly as long as they were adjusted properly. If you do find a set of these shift/brake levers, my recommendation would be to flush them out with some kind of cleaner/degreaser (I use electronic contact cleaner), then spray a light lube in them (I used WD-40, works well enough) to clean out the old, hardened grease & get them moving properly. I'm also a stickler for attention-to-detail, as I see you are. Couple tricks I use are to match up the tire decal centered under the valve stem (always see this not done, one of my pet peeves), using a permanent marker to touch up those nicks in things painted black, and tucking that rear derailleur cable end up into the body of the derailleur for that clean look. I've even been known to go as far as turning the spoke nipples just that slight of a turn so that all the flats are facing out the same way - I know, I have a problem
