GT RTS

stu76":2b6nv06r said:
My seatpost is 27.0, but it's an older RTS 2.

If the cable routing is the same as mine then you'll need a top pull front mech rather than bottom. There should be a cable stop about half way down the seat tube if it's top pull.

Hope this helps.

Stu

it has done, thanks.

Here's a few pictures of the frame, by the way...

2dlvx1e.jpg


zwdn3t.jpg


Sticker says 7000 series aluminium. Bikepedia says it should be 7005 if it's an RTS-3.

2j5cto5.jpg


Serial number.

qrfcjs.jpg


Suspension that is tuned by the rocker.
 
And after 3 hours of taking stuff from the Kona, and sticking it on the GT, I've gotten this far:

35ivntg.jpg


Sadly, the crank puller completely stripped the thread of the crank it was meant to pull, so it has a date with Mr Hammer in the morning, other than that, all is good; the suspension works with no creaks on my "jump up and down on it" test, although I might be swapping the stems about a bit,as the set up looks quite aggressive to me, and I need some new outer-cables. And I need to sort the seatpost length out a bit.....

Weight is on the "acceptable" side so far.

The Kona frame?

Well, I might build it up as a rigid single speed if I can get some decent wheels for it, but I'll finish one project first.


EDIT: Big thank you to retrobike readers that sold me things I needed to fill in the holes. Much appreciated.
 
lewis1641":266rzlm4 said:
check the bottom bracket and pivot area for cracks before you get carried away

Check the chainstays you mean? No sure the seat post size was a 26.8mm on the Taiwan built RTS-3, guessing it wasn't...can someone confirm that?
 
Sadly, the drive side crank is still stuck. Very stuck. The threads are stripped so the crank puller is useless. I've left some 3:1 oil on it, but have run out of ideas of how to free this, apart from sawing through the bottom bracket spindle and then trying to punch it out. I'd prefer to use this rank as it's an STX SE one, with the funny bolt pattern, and I quite like my Middleburn 44T chainring...

Any ideas?
 
Malicious Afterthought":3b8jnsoa said:
Sadly, the drive side crank is still stuck. Very stuck. The threads are stripped so the crank puller is useless. I've left some 3:1 oil on it, but have run out of ideas of how to free this, apart from sawing through the bottom bracket spindle and then trying to punch it out. I'd prefer to use this rank as it's an STX SE one, with the funny bolt pattern, and I quite like my Middleburn 44T chainring...

Any ideas?


If you don't make sure the threaded portion of the crank puller is in as far as possible before starting the outer three threads will always pull out. Is there any thread left deeper in the arm? Using a gear puller may be you only possibilty.
http://www.amazon.com/4-Pc-Gear-Puller- ... B0002ZUI1O
 
The method I've always used is to soak overnight with oil, Gt85 etc & then ride it till it falls off.

A bit difficult if you've stripped it!
 
Back
Top