Grease!

Interesting CC - I have used copper anti-seize in many applications for many years (started using it in VW flat fours for spark plug installation and went from there...) and use it liberally in BBs, particularly ti frames. I acknowledge absolutely your experience, but personally found it helped avoid galvanic corrosion on alloy wheels - we use our cars in the Alps in the winter, and there's quite a lot of salt to encourage galvanic corrosion - I had a pair of wheels stuck fast to the Touran discs in the late 90s. A liberal smear of CoppaSlip on the rear face has stopped that from happening again. But the thing is this - copper suspended greases are, I believe, non-conducting:


I enjoy knowing more and more about these things, and from the science base as well as in field experience....
 
Quite a bit of info there regarding the Dielectric/Conductive grease.Think this part would support the idea that copper,ally n steel can react together.I understand electrical current can increase the reaction in this case;
"The suspended metal must be fully compatible with the metals being clamped. This means conductive grease is application specific. If the metals being clamped are incompatible with the grease's suspended metal powder, the connection will eventually fail. This is what happened in our CATV system connectors. The connections were a mix of copper, aluminum, and steel. The cable shields were aluminum, the trunk center conductors cables were copper clad aluminum. Drop cables were aluminum shields and connectors, with copper clad steel centers. Our records showed a much higher incidence of corrosion failure using conductive grease. Corrosion failure rate dropped significantly, almost to zero, when we switched to pure dielectric grease."
Difference in experience with vehicle wheels,could be the ones I've encountered had been on longer,various other factors but I believe it's the copper itself that corrodes first,being lower on the periodic table?Found it also causing problems when used on ally/steel suspension bushings.Again,probably after a long period.
Interestingly,in a recent similar discussion,it was revealed that some Titanium anti galling compound had a small percentage of copper in.Guess it works well for Ti.
Guess we all have our favourites,whatever we've found works for us. 👍
 
copper slip was originally for galvanised bolts etc mounting in concrete or steels. It has no place on car battery terminals nor brake pads. OK on wheels but still better using Nickle based.
 
Ah having had a good read I think I am getting the hang of this. Copper a problem when the carrier evaporates - eg in spark plug context in aluminium heads - and the residual noble copper then becomes conductive. I have ordered some nickel antiseize for some of the contexts in which copper-based AS is a potential problem. I suppose the first use I had was steel, unplated spark plugs in cast iron cylinder heads....where it definitely was a good idea.

Good discussion....useful.
 
Always intend to use the correct 'threadlock' on bolts not intended to move until you undo it, especially chainring bolts and anything near oil.
But I can never remember the numbering for the correct hold it, anti whatsit, anti oils and probably vibration characteristics (bb cups).

So red, stringy white and slick grey for bits and bobs and dab of Shimano anti for stuff.

And then mix it all up as the correct one is never where you need it.

(hope ti-glide ratchets work really well with with slippery thin greases as do cables and suspension forks)
 
Last edited:
Surely the kind criterion for any grease in a Hope rear hub is how it makes it SOUND … the clickeyer the better...BUZZZZZZZZZZZ
 
For bearings i have always used Silkolene Pro RG2, the best and its red, what more do you need :) it also lasts a lifetime if you buy a tub.

grease.jpg
 
Back
Top