I have given the freewheel issue quite a bit of thought and one point keeps leaving me confused. Sheldon says -
"A French freewheel may start to thread onto an ISO/British/Italian hub but will soon bind. An ISO/British/Italian freewheel will skim the top of the threads of a French hub and will slip forward if an attempt is made to use it. Do not force a freewheel -- you will ruin the hub."
This is NOT what i did (this took some time to realise). I put the freewheel onto the bub and it did bind, this took ages to remove and caused some damage to the threads on the hub. But Sheldon is refering to a French FW and another type of hub - therefore my hub may (only may) be something which is not French - English, ISO or Italian.
I checked the freewheel concerned with the BB cup and i believe it to English therefore the hub must be ISO or Italian. I tried matching the threads 'against the light' and, to me, the hub and an Engligh cup are totally different.
I hope this makes some sense, it has taken me a while to get it straight in my head and still i amy be wrong.
Therefore - my hub is not English and not French so it must be either ISO or Italian. Can anyone assist with advice as to my next move.
In closing, i should add that the damage caused to the threads may be causing me the issue but it is hard for me to assess until i get a FW which fits.
I hope you all have a great weekend, my head is getting fried by this problem!!!
I think you're worrying about it too much Richard. You should just stick it back on your bike with the freewheel that you screwed on and get out peddling.
He was more than helpful when i asked about the Nuovo Tipo hubs, he provided me with some details info and then sent me pics of NOS hubs which have not beed messed with - so i can compare my spacing etc with original ones.
Nigel provided the following info -
Two pics of correct untouched NOS spacing on NTipo hub:
Pic 1 showing complete hubs - NTipo 5s/120mm is lower one in pic.
Victory large fla 6s/126mm is upper hub-coincidentally FR thread.
You will see the correct 4mm spacer on left side on both to make up for use of std hex locknuts as against circular thicker Record.
In Pic 2, I reversed the cog sides for a close up of spacers; Camp added 4mm spacer to Vic 6s plus the long alloy spacer is 1mm+ longer than on 5s plus the tab washer on LEFT side on Vic hub is thicker, maybe 1mm- so it all adds up to the extra 6mm width required for 6s.
PIC 1
PIC 2
Thanks to Nigel for the info, he had me baffled at an early stage but was able to explain it to me in language i could understand.