Fitting a Shimano HG70 11T-28T (7) cassette to a Shimano DX FH-M650 HUB (7)

[drexal77]

Its really is as simple as @FluffyChicken said in his first utterance! All you need to complete the task is a spacer, put on the freehub first.....then put on the cassette.

Unless you want 8 speed or more, there us little point changing the roughly 30mm 7 speed freehub out for a 35mm longer one for 8 + speed......as you will just need more spacers to mount your cassette.

If you ask in the wanted section, im sure somebody will have a 1mm washer....

The reason there is a problem, which may help you understand the solution, comes from the way the 11 vs the 12 bottom cogs are cut where they interface. 12s goes right onto the freehub splines, but an 11 does not.....it has a rim on it.....hence needing the washer to make up the lost space so you can clamp the stack down.

Also , more "modern" hubs have a slight cut away on the edge of the splines which allows 11 speed to engage further onto the freehub.

Hi @Tootyred thanks for replying and taking time to explain the situation in such an intelligible way. Sorry i've not replied to the last few posts. I've thought i should wait for the hub so not to waste anyone else's time on this. Finally bought and received a beautiful DX hub with the old style barrel. I've managed to fit the cassette on with 2x 1mm spacers (leaving off the rear thicker spacer) and the cassette and 2x loose cogs all feel tight now and correctly spaced.
I've hand tightened the locking ring on, but it feels like it has only clamped down into one and half of the threads. But i have just realised i don't have the lock ring tool why the hell did i not think about this when i received the cassette and saw the lock ring. Could you please clarify this is part i need:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Park-Tool-FR-5-2-Cassette-Lockring/dp/B01LX3E08Z/ref=asc_df_B01LX3E08Z/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310135571037&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10946772806827693642&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046009&hvtargid=pla-566270972057&psc=1&th=1&psc=1

Also it says 40N.m on the ring, so i'm presuming i will also need to buy a torx wrench as well, because i don't have one of these either?

Once i get the lock ring tool, do you know how many full turns of the lock ring i should be able to do, so i can check properly seated / fixed in to the right amount?

Actually i could probably check this by attaching the lock ring with with no cassette on. And seeing how many turns till it hits the barrel.

Because this will tell me if i need to change the barrel to the newer style where there is a bevelled edge so i can secure the 11T lock ring on to the correct amount of turns.

The one thing i don't understand surely 11T cogs were around before they changed the barrels to the newer bevelled edge type?
Or did 11T cogs come out way later on?

Thanks again to anyone that replies

 

[FluffyChicken]

They came out the same time, 11T (part of Compact Drive) made the freehub change and that change was in 1994.
(as a side note 1993 was the last year of Deore DX)

The only other way to get 11T before that (ignoring suntour) was using a screw-in cog.


I remember them, mainly as a way to get 8speed before proper 8speed BUT I don't actually remember any details.

 

[drexal77]

Thanks for quick reply @FluffyChicken ahh ok, so if the 11T and compact drives came out the same time. I 100% now need to find a compact drive (bevelled edge newer shaped barrel) to add to this old DX hub like @hamster suggested a early on in the thread?

Thanks for the time lines very helpful.

But it sounds like it would be better to try and find a 7 speed version, otherwise i have to keep adding spacers etc to get the cassette tight.

I'm going to order the lock ring tool now and a torx wrench now and see if i can get a 7 speed STX barrel from hamster. And try and continue on with this. What a saga this has been just to run a 11T cog. But fun learning all this new stuff.

Next got to figure out how to get the barrel off the rub etc, but i'm sure you told me the tools i need for this above, which i'm sure i have.

I promise to upload some images once its altogether.

Thanks again.

 

[FluffyChicken]

You don't need a torque wrench, most people just nip it up tight and add a bit.

The parks looks like a nice modern style of the tools and will work for newer bikes too, for older bikes the one with the rod in it can be easier. There are many makes.


Word of warning, go to the park website to see how to use the tool, especially how to undo the locking...

1994 hubs from STX and LX are 7speed.
Don't worry about it, just use what you have.
Take some pictures

 

[Tootyred]

As fluffy said....getting them off is far harder than putting them on...and watching a video is advisable.....especially if you like skin on your knuckles....

40nm is tight, but its not gorilla hands tight! A normal person with an 10" ratchet can easily pull that with one hand in the middle to steady the tool.....so don't over do it! You dont need a breaker bar or scaffold pole is all im saying.

The cassette will snug down a bit, but just keen an eye on threads....but saying that they are only holding the cassette on, as the actual force on the cassette is in the other direction.

 

[legrandefromage]

Sram 11-32t with a Deore MT-60 rear mech - 10spd