disc brakes verses rim brakes discuss!

Andy R":29n7xb72 said:
I'm using Magura Marta disc brakes...Both sets were bought new on Ebay and neither set cost me more than £150...I don't think that Avid BB7's are lighter than these and as far as setup/maintenance goes, the Maguras are just "fit and forget" in my experience...I think feel and modulation is far better with hydraulic disc brakes than with cable too.
One advantage of the Avids is that you can use matching levers for a front disc and rear V brake...

i also run martas on my FS, a front BB7 on the SS. at US$60 per, the BB7s are far cheaper...even after you add levers. surprisingly, you're right about the weight: ~325g for the BB7 caliper, martas listed at about the same (does that include lever/fluid?).

pad swaps are simple either way, but i'd say it's easier to swap a cable than it is to flush a hydro system. until you need maintenance, they're both fit/forget, eh?

i run full housing with my BB7, so dirty cables are not an issue. and with properly clean/lubed cables, the lever feel and modulation is not so different from the martas...i promise you. 'never run cable op discs'? well then, i'd wager that you've never used a properly fit set.
 
Pickle":2c6i3m2q said:
IMO, its weight v stopping ability.

I love my discs, but my Avalanche is heavier than either of my FS bikes :roll:

Discs also dont like wet gritty rides, when all the grit gets in the calipers.

My XTR discs are way lighter than XTR V brakes, BUT 62 gramme Titanium rotors/all Ti bolts, help and STI combined shifters/levers too. Hope Mini Pro's with Ti discs/ all bolts and Carbon levers are even lighter at well under 300 an end. The stopping power and modulation just cannot compare in all conditions with V's. If you use the corrrect Skeletal rotors grit is rarely a problem. Gritty conditions can wreck a rim in hours with V's not to mention Pad wear!
Stans now do Carbon rotors at sub 50 grammes!
 
I've just started using discs and went for the cable option as I didn't want to mess around with oils etc. I also run a full housing to keep it a sealed system. Went for overkill in the rotors and have 203mm waveys back and front. Stopping power is awesome but I need it cos I'm 'big-boned'.
I've got V's on my other bikes and have power boosters on 1 set of V's :wink:
 
Rotors

160 are max you need with modern brakes now, even for extreme down hill, no pump or fade even on Alpine Black runs regardless of you weight. If you use Ti or Carbon rotors, they don't heat as much and weigh mucho less!( not cheap though :D )
Hydraulic are easier to maintain than cable, it's just a matter of learning the science.
 
Re: Rotors

Wold Ranger":3ozpvgdf said:
160 are max you need with modern brakes now, even for extreme down hill, no pump or fade even on Alpine Black runs regardless of you weight. If you use Ti or Carbon rotors, they don't heat as much and weigh mucho less!( not cheap though :D )

Got to admit that there's too much power with the 203's and was thinking of going back to the 165's I've got in the tool box :?
 
have to disagree on 160mm rotors being all you need regardless of weight, there's a 24 stone rider on uk-mtb who has to use 203mm vented rotors to stop his weight (UK & Alps)

saying that though, 180 front /160rear is all most folks will ever need for any riding discipline.
 
Back in the old days Canti's were never good enough for me, and HS33's were just a plain pain in the arse.

V brakes were better, but not without problems, and as for old ceramic compounds on rims, well they were rubbish.

A well set up set of decent V's can be all many need, but they have to be properly maintained and set up, my own XTR V's were more powerful than most of my friends Hope disc set ups.

My preference was also down to weight though, a pair of Avid Magnesium with titanium hardware with Nokon cables and Mavic 517 MKII ceramic rims (the grey compound) are very light, and do offer decent braking. I had no problems with my various V brakes when I used to ride at Glentress and Inverleithen.

I currently use Hayes Stroker Carbon, and they are nice and powerful, if a little wooden, and I prefer them to V's these days. But they are heavy, and noisy after a few wet road rides, I am sure road filth is as bad for pads?

Disc brakes are where it's at now, other brakes are for Weight Weenies and Retro bikes.
 
Re: Rotors

xizang":37k3dnb0 said:
Wold Ranger":37k3dnb0 said:
160 are max you need with modern brakes now, even for extreme down hill, no pump or fade even on Alpine Black runs regardless of you weight. If you use Ti or Carbon rotors, they don't heat as much and weigh mucho less!( not cheap though :D )

Got to admit that there's too much power with the 203's and was thinking of going back to the 165's I've got in the tool box :?

Didn't add that they're on my XC bike (NRS1). Then again changing them back to the 165's would mean changing all the adaptors etc again and I haven't long got them feeling how I like them.
IMO, the 203's do look good (form over too much function) but maybe it's just me 8)
 
Can cable discs use V or canti levers, or it is a different amount of cable pull from both of those?
 
Mountain bike cable discs use V brake levers. You can get road cable discs that work with the same cable pull as cantilever brakes. I plan to get a set for one of my bikes because using the same levers for cantis on the rear and discs on the front looks a lot better (this set up my be blasphemy to some)

http://www.sram.com/en/avid/mechanicald ... b7road.php

http://www.sram.com/en/avid/mechanicald ... b5road.php


I have been picking up some cheap canti brake levers off eBay the last few months as they are not as popular as V levers, I think once road discs catch on the bargains will dry up.
 
Back
Top