Dawes Bike - Identifying Model

I need two guide positions on the downtube in any case. I could have used bolt on around the stub, but as I said earlier, with the frame shotblasted, I could do the job properly. It only took about 5 minutes to remove the stubs before final
filing smooth. Most is removed with a junior hacksaw, and the rest grinds off very quickly.

I don't understand the problem with brazing. Like most of my generation, I learnt to braze at school, and the modern tools are both cheap and very easy to use on small items. There is usually no need to be careful if you are a bit rusty - just gob it on, and use small fine files to tidy up.

The top tube guides for the rear brake are in good condition. There are three guides, if that helps identification, and two sets of threaded holes on both front and rear downtubes - for water bottles or similar I presume.

No provision for a pump, as far as I can see.

Brazed lug and general build quality is very good - I had a 60's Royal Enfield frame shotblasted at the same time, and the difference is quite marked.

It would have been nice to know a bit more, but if the serial no is of no use, I will have to try different wheel diameter/brake combinations to find the right fit.
 
I just assumed that there were two braze on shifters.......like these (only the guy has used the wrong adapters)..

twrj.jpg


I was taught brazing at school back in the early 1970's :D

Shaun
 
Re:

That's what I was trying to avoid. This would force the cables to be either side of the downtube, instead of below.

I did consider using stops, so that bare cable would run along the downtube, but since I'm modifying a racing bike to commute the recipient between home and his allotment ( hence the straight handlebars, to take a basket ), bar cables is a bit over the top.
 
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