Cutting threaded steerer... good idea ?

Zanoli

Old School Hero
Hi,

I'm considering using a threaded fork designed for a long head tube on a shorter head tube frame.
The threaded portion is long enough for me to cut the streerer and still have enough threads to adjust the headset. Any opinion against cutting the thing ? Safety hazard or something else i should worry about ?

Thanks !
 
Re:

Go for it!

I think the rule used to be headtube + 40mm is the necessary steerer length of fork crown to your cut

If you dont have pro tools, use an old threaded bearing race as a guide to allow you to cut it square and even and backing off the race after cutting helps to clean the threads
 
I cant see a problem as initially they'd cut to length any threaded steerer depending on frame size/headtube length. All you're doing is cutting it down as they would.

As above - leave a spacer lockring/nut on to clear the ragged cut clear of the thread, but best to dress that first with a file, or the sharp ragged edge will remain sharp and ragged
 
Done this a few times in the past but cut a straight edge so use a proper guide or use one of these which really helps

SG-8_002.jpg
 
Re: Re:

pigman":21io0lm5 said:
Go for it!

I think the rule used to be headtube + 40mm is the necessary steerer length of fork crown to your cut

If you dont have pro tools, use an old threaded bearing race as a guide to allow you to cut it square and even and backing off the race after cutting helps to clean the threads

So i've done it and it works but i couldn't respect the 40mm rule... I used a 105 headset and the locknut comes with a plastic seal preventing it to be tightened beyond the seal. I should have popped it out maybe... but now it's done i have have no extra threads beyond the lockring seal. Hope it will be alright !

Thanks
 
Re: Re:

Zanoli":37fb121s said:
pigman":37fb121s said:
Go for it!

I think the rule used to be headtube + 40mm is the necessary steerer length of fork crown to your cut

If you dont have pro tools, use an old threaded bearing race as a guide to allow you to cut it square and even and backing off the race after cutting helps to clean the threads

So i've done it and it works but i couldn't respect the 40mm rule... I used a 105 headset and the locknut comes with a plastic seal preventing it to be tightened beyond the seal. I should have popped it out maybe... but now it's done i have have no extra threads beyond the lockring seal. Hope it will be alright !

Thanks

You did it correct.

The 40mm is just a guestimate for when looking for length of the steerer if you don't know the headset, in my opinion, not for cutting. Cutting needs to be correct.
 
Re: Re:

Zanoli":1ajggd5s said:
So i've done it and it works but i couldn't respect the 40mm rule... I used a 105 headset and the locknut comes with a plastic seal preventing it to be tightened beyond the seal. I should have popped it out maybe... but now it's done i have have no extra threads beyond the lockring seal. Hope it will be alright !

Thanks

i'm not defending what I said, but im not sure I understand??
if i'm reading it correctly, there should be no threads beyond the lockring seal - the lockring seal should be the last thing showing. All the threads should be hidden beneath it …… unless of course I misunderstood what you said
 
Re: Re:

pigman":1ax3vr7g said:
Zanoli":1ax3vr7g said:
So i've done it and it works but i couldn't respect the 40mm rule... I used a 105 headset and the locknut comes with a plastic seal preventing it to be tightened beyond the seal. I should have popped it out maybe... but now it's done i have have no extra threads beyond the lockring seal. Hope it will be alright !

Thanks

i'm not defending what I said, but im not sure I understand??
if i'm reading it correctly, there should be no threads beyond the lockring seal - the lockring seal should be the last thing showing. All the threads should be hidden beneath it …… unless of course I misunderstood what you said

Yes that's what i tried to say :) It's just that the total lenght between headtube and top of lockring is less than 40mm and i cut the steerer accordingly. I guess this steerer will only be usable with a low stack headset from now on, but i can't figure out how i could have done it differently (to get closer to 40mm for instance). Any idea ?

Thanks !
 
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