could do with some help removing a seized bolt

I find that leverage is the most important thing after the "lube" part!

so use a long pipe ( or cut vacuum cleaner tube) to put the handle of your tool in.
40 to 60 cm will allow you to put pressure kindly but very strongly and hopefully unscrew the lot :wink:
 
bduc61":14hla8bu said:
I find that leverage is the most important thing after the "lube" part!

so use a long pipe ( or cut vacuum cleaner tube) to put the handle of your tool in.
40 to 60 cm will allow you to put pressure kindly but very strongly and hopefully unscrew the lot :wink:

Am I the only one getting aroused over this :?
 
coke is great as a de rust medium , just leave it to soak over night and you will be surprised what it will shift - i have unceased engines with it!!
then you can always try to tighten it a small amount first to loosen off the rust then try to remove the bolt.

if you do need to drill make sure that you centre punch the bolt first and work ure way through the drill bit sizes with no more than a 1 mm increment between each then you can use somne reverse thread taps - but be carefull if its even slightly off- centre you will have no chance of the taps working and worse case scenario it will snap in there causing more problems than you thought possible!
 
or, as a last result, rather than drilling, try welding a bar to the exposed head of the bolt, the instand heat generated will loosen the threads, and the axle will be useable as you wont have mangled the threads with the drill. to date i have never had a bolt that i cannot remove with a welder, even exhaust manifold studs that have broken off 5mm below the surface!
 
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