Tomato
Retro Guru
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Cook Bros. F-Type Crank Mold
- Thread starter Tomato
- Start date
bikeworkshop
Old School Grand Master
More likely its a home made casting?
Like antique dealers and cast iron C19th style objects like fire backs, garden furniture and toys, railway and street signs.
It's certainly not what it says it is.
Like antique dealers and cast iron C19th style objects like fire backs, garden furniture and toys, railway and street signs.
It's certainly not what it says it is.
baron von greenback
Retro Guru
This has never seen a forge I don't think it's mould looks more like a stamp out of a crank arm like they do with car parts it's the other side of it that looks worse if it was a mould you would be able to recreate more cranks arms it would be worth h the money
Betsy
Old School Grand Master
Agreed @retrobate
It's not moulded.. how would you get the molten metal into the cavity of a closed mould?.. the crank doesn't have a flat back, therefore it would need to be made in 2x halves to create the shape..
You need a runner system.. like this^
You would pour your molten aluminium into the feeder head and it would flow into the casting via the ingate.. the thickest part of the casting will be the last to cool (modulus) so as that section contracts, there is enough metal in the head to feed the casting, giving you a sound crank without cracks..
Once cooled the flashing around the casting is fettled away, the heads are cut off to be melted down / used again.. the riser on the other end is just to keep an open flow / no back pressure.. if you can't see evidence of any runner system but you can see flashing it isn't a casting.. how would you get the metal into the mould cavity othrwise?
It's not moulded.. how would you get the molten metal into the cavity of a closed mould?.. the crank doesn't have a flat back, therefore it would need to be made in 2x halves to create the shape..
You need a runner system.. like this^
You would pour your molten aluminium into the feeder head and it would flow into the casting via the ingate.. the thickest part of the casting will be the last to cool (modulus) so as that section contracts, there is enough metal in the head to feed the casting, giving you a sound crank without cracks..
Once cooled the flashing around the casting is fettled away, the heads are cut off to be melted down / used again.. the riser on the other end is just to keep an open flow / no back pressure.. if you can't see evidence of any runner system but you can see flashing it isn't a casting.. how would you get the metal into the mould cavity othrwise?
LeeDevelopment
Old School Grand Master
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Needs reporting to eBay if the listing is incorrect/misleading?
Betsy
Old School Grand Master
Go for it Lee.. they didn't give a shit when i reported Nazi memorabilia being sold 
I think the seller probably does believe it is what he's claiming it to be.. probably bought at a flea market or sale and took the sales patter as gospel.. Without any knowledge of manufacturing processes, you'd have no reason to believe otherwise..
I used to work near Record Ridgeway and they'd have a skip outside full of failed forgings ready for the scrap man to collect.. something like this^ crank could have easily been pulled from a skip.
I think the seller probably does believe it is what he's claiming it to be.. probably bought at a flea market or sale and took the sales patter as gospel.. Without any knowledge of manufacturing processes, you'd have no reason to believe otherwise..
I used to work near Record Ridgeway and they'd have a skip outside full of failed forgings ready for the scrap man to collect.. something like this^ crank could have easily been pulled from a skip.
bikeworkshop
Old School Grand Master
I do this with fake and stolen bike stuff - but the only thing they ever respond to is traders avoiding fees and fraudsters putting items up for sale that don't exist.
This latter is why private sellers usually don't their their money until the goods are marked as collected by the buyer.
