Cold Setting the rear stays

SpaceFlightOrange":3oftwtwu said:
Muddy paw":3oftwtwu said:
I with you on mocking up your own tools instead of buying the proper ones as that will have saved you a few quid plus you'll probably find another use for them at some point in the future and yes i can quite imagine the cost getting out of hand when getting a pro like Bob Jackson to do the job as he'd probably be adding the cost of a re paint to the cost of the braces and as you say the frame isn't that expensive to begin with so good call mate ;) ..


Thanks. Although I haven't ridden it yet...

...I just hope the arse-end doesnt fall off :shock:

No worries mate it'll be just fine for the next 50 odd years ;) ..
 
Good work.
I re-aligned the rear triangle on my Explosif as it was off centre by about 5mm. I used the Sheldon Brown method with a length of 2x4 and some brute force http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html. All a bit alarming and it required jumping up and down on the 2x4 as there was so much spring in the frame, but it worked viewtopic.php?f=1&t=286271&hilit=expletives
Wouldn't try it with anything but steel.
Good luck with your Groovyblueshed whatever method you use.
 
Re:

:) I think I'll go with the more measured technical approach with the DIY threaded tools as in the video – I'm likely to be a liability to myself with the plank technique :facepalm:
 
jonthefish":10p5j5zr said:
I re-aligned the rear triangle on my Explosif as it was off centre by about 5mm. I used the Sheldon Brown method with a length of 2x4 and some brute force
Used the same method to realign the frame of my XT550, which is "a bit" heavier. Took a bit of doing, but works a treat.
 
Re: Re:

groovyblueshed":3iq87yfv said:
:) I think I'll go with the more measured technical approach with the DIY threaded tools as in the video – I'm likely to be a liability to myself with the plank technique :facepalm:

If the rear triangle is mis-aligned then you may need to go the Sheldon method. The threaded rods will spread the dropouts but I don't see how they will change the alignment in a predicatble way unless you can prevent one dropout from moving relative to the main axis of the frame :?

And if you do use Sheldon's method to re-align rather than change spacing then put an old axle between the dropouts so that they move together (top tip from Inverlochy Bikes - they even gave me an old axle - fine fellows).
 
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