Claud Butler Pagan
- Thread starter Abaca
- Start date
- Feedback
- View
Get the local bike shop to remove the bottom bracket, regrease it and re-fit it, its very unlikely that there'll be much wrong with it anyway except maybe a bit of play. It should also be a Shimano cup & cone model too which means long life, easy servicing and better than a modern UN** sealed BB that dont seem to last that long.
Picked up those bolts and will see if they fit,daft question time but do I need to order nuts as well??
That stem trick worked a treat,it's pretty gunky but I'll give it a good scrubbing.
Will try that lube trick when I get home,I guess it's not the biggest expense if I have to replace them.
Will measure the spindle later and see what I get,my eyes where watering with all those figures.
What's the difference between a cup and cone and a sealed BB? IV got the BB out minus the drive side,just wanting a BB with minimal maintenance.
Thanks
That stem trick worked a treat,it's pretty gunky but I'll give it a good scrubbing.
Will try that lube trick when I get home,I guess it's not the biggest expense if I have to replace them.
Will measure the spindle later and see what I get,my eyes where watering with all those figures.
What's the difference between a cup and cone and a sealed BB? IV got the BB out minus the drive side,just wanting a BB with minimal maintenance.
Thanks
- Feedback
- View
Cup & cone and sealed
Cup & cone can be easily serviced whereas sealed cannot and has to be binned when it goes wobbly
Cup & cone can be easily serviced whereas sealed cannot and has to be binned when it goes wobbly
O.k so I have the cup and cone type just now minus the little plastic thing,it seems they're a bit cheaper than the sealed units.
Cartridge looks a lot heavier as well.
I take it it depends on the volume of riding how long a cartridge lasts for? Are they not better value over the long term?
Thanks
Cartridge looks a lot heavier as well.
I take it it depends on the volume of riding how long a cartridge lasts for? Are they not better value over the long term?
Thanks
Re:
Back in the days when I had one bicycle and do about 4 or 5,000 miles a year on it, I would replace the cup and cone BB at least once a year, I'd put a new one in, in the spring, it would be rough by the end of winter, despite cleaning it and repacking with fresh grease a couple of times. I'd usually put up with it until the better weather the next spring and then replace it. They weren't sealed and my then road bike had no mudguards so they'd get a fair bit of water in them and end up full of sludge like yours.
I don't do anywhere near that sort of mileage now, but have yet to wear out the UN55 or the UN72 I have in two of my bikes. The UN72 must have done close to 5,000 miles by now, it's been in there for years, and it's as smooth as the day I fitted it.
Back in the days when I had one bicycle and do about 4 or 5,000 miles a year on it, I would replace the cup and cone BB at least once a year, I'd put a new one in, in the spring, it would be rough by the end of winter, despite cleaning it and repacking with fresh grease a couple of times. I'd usually put up with it until the better weather the next spring and then replace it. They weren't sealed and my then road bike had no mudguards so they'd get a fair bit of water in them and end up full of sludge like yours.
I don't do anywhere near that sort of mileage now, but have yet to wear out the UN55 or the UN72 I have in two of my bikes. The UN72 must have done close to 5,000 miles by now, it's been in there for years, and it's as smooth as the day I fitted it.
- Feedback
- View
Whereas I've pulled out mint BBs from 30 - 40 year old bikes that have been in mint condition and worn out a UN52 in 6 months!
You picks what ya picks and live with it.
You picks what ya picks and live with it.
Mmm decisions, decisions
If the spindle I have now was the correct length I would probably just buy new races and keep the cup and cone.
But with the crank sitting so close to the frame I think it might be easier to fit the cartridge style unless I can find a bigger spindle,the total length is 140 end to end, would a extra 5 be enough clearance for the cranks to the frame??
Current spindle is stamped 3A
Found an eBay seller with a selection of spindles
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6yW9Z ... p=drivesdk
Not got cash to buy loads of spindles to try so would appreciate any advice on what to get.
Thanks for all your help
If the spindle I have now was the correct length I would probably just buy new races and keep the cup and cone.
But with the crank sitting so close to the frame I think it might be easier to fit the cartridge style unless I can find a bigger spindle,the total length is 140 end to end, would a extra 5 be enough clearance for the cranks to the frame??
Current spindle is stamped 3A
Found an eBay seller with a selection of spindles
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6yW9Z ... p=drivesdk
Not got cash to buy loads of spindles to try so would appreciate any advice on what to get.
Thanks for all your help
I know I have asked a million questions guys,I appreciate your patience with me,!
Just one more if I may?
The only reason I was going to get a bigger spindle was the crank was sitting too close to the frame.
Its s triple up front so I was thinking about just removing the smallest one and see how it sits,am I going to run into a ton of problems doing this?
Just trying to find the simplest most cost effective means of getting this running
Just one more if I may?
The only reason I was going to get a bigger spindle was the crank was sitting too close to the frame.
Its s triple up front so I was thinking about just removing the smallest one and see how it sits,am I going to run into a ton of problems doing this?
Just trying to find the simplest most cost effective means of getting this running
- Feedback
- View
when you say 'its too close' - any chance of a pic? A 2-3mm gap is not uncommon and quite normal to keep the chainline straight and shifting smooth
