Cartridge bottom brackets, the truth ?

silverclaws

Senior Retro Guru
For something to do, I tried out my new Shimano type bottom bracket removal tool, and removed the cartridge style bearing, a BB-LP30, which was useful, as it gave an indication to the age of my atb, that being 1993 or 94. Anyway having got this thing out after finding how stiff and notchy it was without the cranks attached I discovered something. Now, my understanding of the term 'sealed bottom bracket' meant that crud can't get in there and maybe water too, but the grease will guard against water. I pulled out the seals to take a look only to find the bearing interspaced with grit, that grit I assume is mud and dust, stuff that has got in there.

So, I have come to the conclusion so called sealed bottom brackets are not the best option for longevity, in that the fit and forget mentality can make people unaware of what exactly is happening down there, a case of, 'oh, it's sealed, it will be ok', as they plough through muddy water, I have done it myself. But that seal that is in there, it is only a rubber lip, it being lubricated by the grease that is on it, grease being what it is, it attracts and holds filth, which dries out the grease and starts the destruction, the seals failing, grit and water gets into the precious bearings.

So the thought is all this fancy complex and expensive transmission we have on these bikes, it is pretty useless if the bottom bracket is failing, the thing we can't see, and perhaps don't think about, but it is probably it is one of the most important parts of the drive system.

Now my bottom bracket has no play in it, but it is grindy graunchy and stiff indicating to me the bearings have a problem or the start of a problem, and I cant get at them. I could I suppose take all the seals off and flush it through then pump in new grease, fit the seals back if they are not too badly damaged, but methinks there is a better option, go back to the old way of doing it, with the screw in cup and bearings that ride between the axle and cups, that way, come maintenance time the whole lot can be stripped out, cleaned and inspected, any problems can be sorted before they become big problems.

Adjusting bearings is a skill, but the old system the bearings could be adjusted to take up the slack of wear and the lockring can be released and tightened with the multi tool method, the screwdriver and hammer if the right tools are'nt available. Perhaps by old ideas, a hole can be drilled in the lowest point of the BB to allow water to drain out, water that gets past the very same type of rubber seals.

But back to the 'sealed' cartridge type bottom bracket, surely it's reason for existence is to aid cycle manufacture, just simply bung it in, no skills required, in fact all these cartridge type assemblies are designed for ease, but what a waste.

I have just got to find out now where I can get an old type assembly, hopefully something lighter than the 320 g lump of steel I took out of my bottom bracket, can anyone shine a light on where I might get such a thing ?
 
A UN72 fitted to my Zaskar frame has covered approximately 50,000 miles at least since it was fitted in 1994 - it has been in the sea, under the 1998 floods and pounded the roads on commuting/ turing work.

Thats my definition of a 'sealed' BB.

Its done its work as a 'fit and forget' item.

Have a look around for early cup & ball BBs
 
i think the term sealed refers more to the fact that they are fit and forget zero maintenance rather than them being 100% water tight etc
 
Yeah, as I said, my BB it seems was fitted in '93 or '94, and the cycle being a pre owned cycle which I do know the guy I got it off bought it from someone else, so what life it has had, I can only guess at, but it has been doing it's thing for at least 14 years and it was not one of the LX to XTR quality items either. But now as I have a possible failed BB, now would be a good time to consider options, fit and forget or total control.

I even thought to yank the cromoly axle out of this thing and assuming it is in good order, use it combined with cups and bearings.

The other thing I thought of with the old system, the chain line can be adjusted if one tends to spend most of their time running a favourite gear ratio, so as to extend the chain life.

Does anyone know if the Shimano transmission will accept an old bottom bracket bearing method, or is it designed to work at it's optimum with sealed BB's ?
 
sealed just refers to lack of adjustment . you cant seal a bearing

i used to stock loads of cup and cone bottom bracket stuff , its still out there

im happy to use a £10 cartridge bb until it fails or wears out but i will soon buy a royce or old hope as they have replaceable bearings

ive known a few square taper cartridge bbs to snap through standing starts alone
 
the axle in the cartridge bb wont have a seat for the ball bearings to run on

chinline isnt any easier with the cup and cones , it involves a fair bit of measuring
 
i agree the 'fit and forget' idea is a bit misleading, they will gradually fade in performance but you wont really notice until the seals give out.
i think its basically down to marketing, whereby you are encouraged to replace parts cos they are out of date rather than worn out.
i have a un52 thats still going ok enough for a pub/station hack after 15 year. then again i got a not so old truative isis that is completely siezed, so its hard to say one way or another if there is a ninherant problem with them
not a massive fan of sealed bearings either, but i guess my experiences of them are tainted by cheap ones with rubbish seals.
the bb in my main ride is a royce axel with real design cups (nice rubber seals) skf bearings. see how that holds up over the summer.
always tempted to go back to open bearings tho. just so much hassle to set up
 
I think you are right to identify the reason that they were so successful - cheaper assembly.

However, they do come at the cost of smaller bearings, so tend to last less long - all other things being equal. Octalink etc are even worse with teeny balls inside to create space for the nice fat axle.
However, water penetration down seat tubes etc also ended up poisoning any loose BB I have had and the same rusty muck was the result.

My UN71/72s have generally been very reliable, but they tend to fail quite suddenly. Usually I ditch them when I get any hint of play. It's a pity that UN72 seems discontinued - at least in the UK.
 
Ha ! cause of notchiness discovered, sod all lubrication, the bearing is more or less dry, so not only has muck moved in there, but the lurication has moved out.

I was just watching the video on the Hope website about their BB, impressed to say the least, if not loose bearings, but bearing races that can be replaced. Perhaps a good trade off between old style and the Shimano type.


But do they do them small enough for steel bikes and take square taper axles ?

http://www.hopegb.com/page_mep_force_58.html[/url]
 
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