Best way to clean a titanium frame?

Yog Sothoth

Retro Guru
I've been offered a titanium frame that's been in a fire. All the componentry is destroyed, either burnt or melted, but the frame is OK, although very discoloured and covered in crap.

Well, I say that, but the seat stays are slightly bent. I reckon I can straighten them OK though.

What would anyone recommend to clean the scale and rust off the frame that won't mess it up? The rust is from the remaining steel components which have been sat outside on top of the frame itself.

I am unfamiliar with titanium so not sure how it reacts or how easily damaged it is.
 
This is it btw. It's a Muddy Fox Ti.

391582_480135652026338_1641105376_n_zpsc1c348c1.jpg
 
For once I actually want to follow a build thread, please do one!

Looks an interesting project.

If you decide against it and put it up for sale I may be interested.

I would start cleaning it with a wire brush.

:)
 
highlandsflyer":2f1iacj8 said:
For once I actually want to follow a build thread, please do one!

Looks an interesting project.

If you decide against it and put it up for sale I may be interested.

I would start cleaning it with a wire brush, and if you want the stays sorted I would suggest taking it to a professional. Cold setting Ti is not recommended. Not that I know anything about that.

:)
 
A wire brush sounds a bit harsh, I'd go for something like a kitchen scouring pad and something like white spirit to get the residue off, then see what is underneath. From the pic the downtube area looks a bit suspect, and I'd be careful about bending the stays back myself as it will weaken the metal.
 
That wants soda blasting to make it look nice. Then hang it on the wall, there's no way that's saveable and will be safe to ride.

I mean come on, the cranks have melted, chances of getting the BB out, one in five hundred billion trillion infinity's, cubed by infinity, twice.
 
there's no way that's saveable and will be safe to ride
I'd go with that too. Most Ti builders go to great lengths to avoid heating the material at all outside the protective inert mantle of backpurged TIG welding and make sure it has a good shield while cooling (1 1/4 cups, gas lenses, trailing shields etc.). Some go as far as never using aluminium oxide abrasives, just hand held silicon carbide, scrupulously clean degreased files, stainless steel brushes and (post-weld) tungsten carbide cutters with coolant. This is all to avoid the Ti sucking up oxygen, nitrogen and hydrocarbons at raised temperatures which causes embrittlement.

The Minerals, Metals & Materials Society
The temperature limitation for titanium alloys, other than specialized engine alloys, is about 540°C. Above this temperature oxygen contamination becomes an issue, embrittling the surface
If that frame's been hot enough to melt the Alu components (660+°C) and possibly distort the rear end, all the Ti is suspect. It's all been well into the danger zone for an unknown length of time in an uncontrolled atmosphere with loads of hydrocarbons from the grease and plastic around, then cooled very slowly, again in an uncontrolled atmosphere...bargepole/shitty stick :(

Clean it up if you really want, but don't ride it.

All the best,
 
If your bored and fancy a challenge then I can't see you have anything to lose on this by having a go as long as the frame is free

if it is free then I would soda blast or green pads type a deal and yes the cups are likely to have melted but the only worry beyond that is the distortion depending on the heat

if you have to pay for it..then I would walk away and not waste my time
 
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