B screw not moving jockey wheel away from cassette

All of the drivetrain is original apart from the chain, shifter cables and housing. I measured the new chain against the old one when I replaced it.
 
Why was the chain replaced? Was it checked for excessive wear? Was there an issue with the old chain regarding being able to effectively shift onto large cogs. If you had serviced the cage tension spring; would you have put it back together exactly as it was before servicing (you marked positions/settings if required)? Was the bike shifting okay before you did any work to it (derailleur service, chain replacement, adjustments, etc.)?

As mentioned previously, you can get (and should do before further experimenting) the hanger alignment checked for low cost at a good shop. Hangers are often out of alignment on new bikes, nevermind those ridden around the block a bit. Get the hanger alignment checked even before buying a new bike!! Include having the derailleur cage alignment checked. Looking at the photos makes me think alignments are not proper. Consider what it took the bend the screw tab. If that got bent, then so did other parts to a greater or lesser degree.
 
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Worn chains. cassettes and sprockets can change how long the chain is/was, and where it sits in the teeth. This can all add up differently over time. On my Ebike I replace chains and cassettes together as a set. A new chain by itself will skip.
 
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@Retrorockit What you mentioned is such a big problem with buying used bikes. Many sellers replace tires, inner tubes, and chains thinking that is all that is required to "service" a used bike and make it more suitable for selling. I have gotten a bike with a new chain running on obviously heavily worn rings/cogs. Darn thing was unrideable until entire drivetrain was serviced with all worn parts replaced. I was able to ride it with an old worn chain installed (though noisy and not crisp shifting; it did not jump teeth under load).

Typical "ebay" type scenario: classic bike mostly original, but new tires, and a marque pantographed large ring mounted (not OE) just to add some "wow factor" to the deal; but when looked at closely that ring is so worn as to be unuseable, and it is useful only for mounting on a non-rider or the wall.
 
Can you remove the derailleur and post a photo of the mounting bolt/ plate/bscrew area, like this?
I think the chrome tab might be the wrong side of the cast alloy tab on the knuckle: 20250724_171509.webp
It's
hardto see if these are the wrong way round once the derailleur is attached.
When reassembling the pivot assembly, the chrome plate needs to be roatated.
 
Is it causing a problem while shifting?

I've got a a Campy Record Titanium 8 speed that is only rated for 26 or 28 tooth max cog size that I've got running a 32 tooth cog. I added a longer B screw to. But it still touches the cassette a lil but shifts just fine. Even when under pressure going up hill.

So if it's not causing a problem shifting...
What's the problem?

And I mean, it is a how many decades old derailleur? There's so many parts that could be causing it to not work properly.
 
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