Are the Avid Ultimate levers I link here for V's or Canti's?

[renaldo]

I own both the earlier version in the ebay link, which I believe were designed for cantis, and the later ones designed for Vs, as FMJ showed, so I measured them. The distance from pivot to cable anchor is around 26 - 38mm on the later levers, and 18 - 30mm on the ealier version. So as others have said, the adjustment does allow some overlap and they might work OK, but you might not be able to get the lever feel etc. you want if you ran the earlier levers with V brakes.

 

[MikeD]

There we go, actual measurements. Good work, that man.

 

[We_are_Stevo]

We have a winner! Someone who knows their arse from their elbow!
Are you an engineer Sir?

yes.

Well, one of you just rehashed what I put in my reply...

...and the other is welcome to give a demonstration and post the results on Youtube!

Perhaps you had a dyslexic moment, but you stated it the wrong way around.

Did I?

B*mmer!

Looks right to me? :?

I knew I was f*ckin' right! :shock:

You lot have a load to bl**dy answer for! I've just been on the receiving end of more sh*t from SWMBO for going out to the shed when I was supposed to be making a cup of tea ( :roll: ) than I've had from other women in my life for getting caught out sh*gging another bird!

So thanks for the wake up call; I am now officially so f*ckin' boring that instead of being out chasing a piece of skirt half my age I'm out in the shed fiddling around with the brakes on my bikes to prove a point to a likewise sad bunch of middle-aged blokes who really should have something better to do!

I have a Lavadome that I fitted with 8-speed STi Canti's pulling V-brakes; they were initially spongy but worked 'acceptably.' Now that he's worn the pads down and they're out of adjustment they don't work at all (it's the same effect as only pulling a V-brake lever part of the way)...

...the only way you can get canti' levers to work correctly with V's is to use a 'Travel Agent' cable pull multiplier, as I did with the Dia-Compe single digit Gold Finger/XT V's set up on my Explosif.

You simply cannot use V-brake levers with canti's because they pull too much cable due to having a longer fulcrum. This means the lever hardly has to move before the pads touch the rims, so you have no control over the braking force (no modulation); as in "grab a handfull and you'll be over the bars..."

It's all very well quoting Sheldon verbatim but you have to actually understand what it means before you use it to criticise others!

On which note I'm going to bed 'To sleep, perchance to Dream; Aye, there's the rub,
For in that sleep of death, what dreams may come...'

 

[ibbz]

We have a winner! Someone who knows their arse from their elbow!
Are you an engineer Sir?

yes.

Well, one of you just rehashed what I put in my reply...

...and the other is welcome to give a demonstration and post the results on Youtube!

Perhaps you had a dyslexic moment, but you stated it the wrong way around.

Did I?

B*mmer!

Looks right to me? :?

I knew I was f*ckin' right! :shock:

You lot have a load to bl**dy answer for! I've just been on the receiving end of more sh*t from SWMBO for going out to the shed when I was supposed to be making a cup of tea ( :roll: ) than I've had from other women in my life for getting caught out sh*gging another bird!

So thanks for the wake up call; I am now officially so f*ckin' boring that instead of being out chasing a piece of skirt half my age I'm out in the shed fiddling around with the brakes on my bikes to prove a point to a likewise sad bunch of middle-aged blokes who really should have something better to do!

I have a Lavadome that I fitted with 8-speed STi Canti's pulling V-brakes; they were initially spongy but worked 'acceptably.' Now that he's worn the pads down and they're out of adjustment they don't work at all (it's the same effect as only pulling a V-brake lever part of the way)...

...the only way you can get canti' levers to work correctly with V's is to use a 'Travel Agent' cable pull multiplier, as I did with the Dia-Compe single digit Gold Finger/XT V's set up on my Explosif.

You simply cannot use V-brake levers with canti's because they pull too much cable due to having a longer fulcrum. This means the lever hardly has to move before the pads touch the rims, so you have no control overthe braking force (no modulation); as in "grab a handfull and you'll be over the bars..."

On which note I'm going to bed 'To sleep, perchance to Dream; Aye, there's the rub,
For in that sleep of death, what dreams may come...'

Ah, at your age 11pm is a bit late no?

 

[We_are_Stevo]

...'tis when you have to get up so unreasonably early just to earn a crust! :roll:

 

[ibbz]

...'tis when you have to get up so unreasonably early just to earn a crust! :roll:

Oii!!! you're still awake!
That reminds me, my old bones are an aching now, and needs some rest!
Jury Service this week

 

[shinobi]

Here we go http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221145571128? ... 3984.m1586.

cant remember where they came from or how i ended up with one of each type :roll:

 

[gtRTSdh]

You simply cannot use V-brake levers with canti's because they pull too much cable due to having a longer fulcrum. This means the lever hardly has to move before the pads touch the rims, so you have no control over the braking force (no modulation); as in "grab a handfull and you'll be over the bars..."

This is not correct, V brake levers have less mechanical advantage thus cannot apply more force at the wheel for a given hand squeeze than canti brake levers. And, the point of engagement (pad/rim) is purely a function of how far away the brake pads are from the rim before you start pulling any given lever. Promise.

 

[suburbanreuben]

I ran V brakes for several years with Kona canti levers; I couldn't afford V brake levers.
DEspite being told by just about everyone that Vs wouldn't work with canti levers, they worked beautifully. Anyone who doubted it was invited to cop a handful.If they weren't sent over the bars they at least learnt a bit about strong brakes. Unfortunately, when Vs were first released each shop got one bike's worth and that was it for about 6 months...

 

[We_are_Stevo]

Copied & pasted from the Gospel according to Sheldon...

Brake Levers for Direct-pull Cantilevers:

Direct-pull cantilevers have double the mechanical advantage compared with traditional brakes, so they require special brake levers. Direct-pull brake levers pull the cable twice as far, half as hard. The lower mechanical advantage of the lever compensates for the higher mechanical advantage. of the cantilever. It is not generally safe to mix and match levers/cables between direct-pull and other types for this reason.

Conventional brake levers used with direct-pull cantilevers will usually not pull enough cable to stop in wet conditions without bottoming out against the handlebars. In dry conditions, they either won't work, or will grab too suddenly.

Direct-pull brake levers used with any other type of brakes will feel nice and solid when you squeeze them, but due to their lower mechanical advantage you'll need to squeeze twice as hard to stop as you should, so unless you are a lightweight rider with gorilla-like paws, this combination isn't safe either.

I suspect those who have used 'conventional' levers/V-brakes successfully may have done so early on BiTD? I seem to remember early V's being not much longer than canti's?

The operative phrase above with regard to V-brake levers/canti' brakes is 'gorilla-like paws!' *

The above does also, however, confirm the evidence of my own eyes with regard to canti' levers pulling V's.

* As I said before, no modulation but I had no problem clamping the wheel solid with minimal effort BiTD (when I didn't know any better ), which I put down to all the time I spent in the gym lugging around free-weights!

My experiences, on which I based my earlier assertions, may therefore be somewhat different to other mere mortals...

So whilst not neccesarily 100% correct, I am not entirely wrong either!

I need a drink! :roll: