Advice on Rims and spokes for a wheel build

Another...

+1 for measuring yourself

AND

+1 for buying tools. Digital verniers will come in super handy in many situations
 
M732 is on there and the best but is all Shimano are the same even into the early Parallax. Plus a slight out on the hub doesn't alter a lot.
They also provide their specs to people.
But check to make sure, it's good practice.
What does alter it is the rim diameter, first an foremost, then hub diameter (Shimano is 45mm). The offset doesn't alter it too much, a few mm here and there so something you spoke choice should easily cover.

Then the cross method and spoke count.... And nipples somewhat.

No doubt it'll be 264mm both sides for ease as it'll be about a mm difference iirc. (263/264)
Have fun measuring as it comes in really useful for odd hubs and rims.
 
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Have you measured the hub and rim yet? I wouldn't advise buying any spokes until you have your own measurements. All these spoke length calculators are just computer programs, and the usual rules apply. Junk hub and rim measurements in = Junk spoke lengths out!

I had a look in my toolbox earlier. My calibrated measurement spokes are still there. It will cost you all of about £2 to buy two plain gauge spokes and two nipples, and make a pair of measurement spokes, but you'll need a steel ruler too, first to cut the spokes to the right length, then to measure the gap between the ends when they're in the rim. My measurement spokes are precisely 250mm long, and they worked fine for my 26" rims.

There are some good YouTube videos on measuring ERD and hubs, and calculating spoke length.

This video is similar to the method I use. But I cut the spokes to exactly 250mm, and then thread the nipple on until the spoke reaches the bottom of the slot in the nipple. I then measure the gap with a steel ruler, same as in the video.



The other option is to leave the spoke heads on, and use a vernier gauge, same as this method. This video also includes measurement of the hub.

 
If I was going to do it all again, I would use the method in the second video:
1. I already have a vernier gauge.
2. The vernier gauge is much more accurate than squinting at my steel ruler.
3. The vernier gauge has a thumb wheel, which is handy for making sure the spokes are under a small amount of tension, and the nipples are snug against the rim eyelets when I measure the gap.
 
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