Advice on bleeding Magura rim

tintin40

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Any advice would be a great help. As this will be my first time. I've down loaded the instructions from their web site. and have service kit. The brake i'm doing are empty of oil. as the person posted them to me dis-connected. I have put an olive on the lever bar pipe and re-connected it to the lever. How many times should i have to do the procedure?
Thanks in advance
 
By "the procedure" do you mean topping the brakes up with oil as the air bubbles rise to the bars?

If so there's no hard answer, you keep adding oil, pump the levers and then let it rest so the air bubbles float up.

It's very easy, and a new olive is the most important bit
 
Thanks. I see well i done it 4 times and i think i'm getting lever pressure and the tube was empty of oil when i got them
 
You'll know when it's right as there'll be no modulation in the brakes :lol:

You should bleed air from the pistons on the calipers as well as at the bars. The caliper part can get messy.

You can also hear the air in the system when you pump the brakes. Hard to describe what to listen for though!...basically it sounds "bubbly" ( Damn I am good at describing this ! :oops: )
 
At the mo the blocks don't move? This is a very strange system I just keep going round in circles 1-fill the oil then push it through the system were it comes out back into the oil bottle. then i remove the kit and they still don't work. Surely i should just fill it with oil and then let the air out? The pdf from magura doesn't say pump the lever? either pump or not nothing much is happening?
 
The Maguras on mine were easy (they are all the same arn't they??)
adjust your levers so they are about 20-30 deg from horizontal. Put a large syringe on the end of a pipe with a spare barbed fitting onto the piston farthest away from the lever in the system and depress plunger (make sure no bubbles are in it)
There should be a bleed screw on lever that you remove- put another fitting on this with a length of pipe so the oil/air in the system doesn't go everywhere. Watch this like a hawk until no bubbles are left in the pipe then remove lower (piston end) pipe whilst keeping a finger over the outlet end (lever). Remove upper bleed off pipe (lever end) and replace bleed screw. If system has been dry it will need doing twice.

TOP TIP- If left dry- After the first bleed get some elastic bands (big uns) or zip ties and put around bar and lever and tighten just a smidge (about a fifth of the levers 'dry' travel) so the lever is slightly depressed and leave for a few hours before re-bleeding. this will allow all the tiny bubbles to rise into the slave cylinder.
Should have fearsome brakes now!!
 
dookie":wj509zdc said:

Dookie your beautiful :D One bleed and i have some movement at last progress. The link was sweet.
Those dark clouds are moving away :D

Magura please change your instructions on your web site just have a link to this page :roll:
Now should i repeat? how much movement should there be with no rim to touch?
 
tintin40":235l85op said:
Dookie your beautiful

yes, yes...

tintin40":235l85op said:
how much movement should there be with no rim to touch?

check my avatar. i've got 'em, but i'm not sure i understand your question. ever bled car brakes? same idea. all fluid, no air. as soon as i touch my lever, the pads move. maybe 2mm (less?) between pad/rim at rest?
 
dookie":1ubihi9t said:
tintin40":1ubihi9t said:
Dookie your beautiful

yes, yes...

tintin40":1ubihi9t said:
how much movement should there be with no rim to touch?

check my avatar. i've got 'em, but i'm not sure i understand your question. ever bled car brakes? same idea. all fluid, no air. as soon as i touch my lever, the pads move. maybe 2mm (less?) between pad/rim at rest?

You have red magura. I'm looking for a rear red and the better lever for my front red. I've bleed them 3 times as per the link. And have got plenty movement on one side the other side is moving less. I'll do them again and see how they look. :D
 
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