04/07/23
Couple of jobs done last night.
Removed the grips and the grip-shifter. 2 minutes right? Wrong. Shifter bolt completely seized and it’s only a 2.5mm allen key fitting, so brute force is a no-go – the allen key(s) were just twisting! None of the “tricks” would budge it and I wasn’t feeling very patient so out came the drill and hacksaws and we entered surgery. Not pretty.
Next to the rear wheel bearings.
Jonny69 asked about the freehub set up? Here you go;
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Nifty.
Wheel off (the axle is permanently attached to the wheel, it’s pressed into the non-drive side of the hub) and bearings replaced dead easy. Note the bushing that sits between the 2 x bearings (the axle runs through this).
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Back to the Freehub, the existing one is tired and the seal at the back was all broken up. Was going to replace it with a spare but it won’t work as the end of it needs to be wide enough to fit the washer/bolt which holds the freehub in place. See?
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Wrong one:
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Right one:
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I thought I would re-fit the old freehub anyway (after a bit of light oil and a seal pinched from another) and try the SHINY new cassette I bought in the Xmas sales. Spot the issue!
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No clearance. The 6-speed cassette I removed had a 24t against my new 34t cassette. Dug one out with a 28t and I think there is plenty of clearance left for the chain.
28t:
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All of the above took about 3 hours. It's slow going with everything being seized AND bespoke!
Questions;
- Freehub – anyone know what type of freehub this is (so I can replace)? Road specific perhaps?
- Cassette – an 8-speed mtb cassette won’t fit on this length of freehub, I’d have to remove a cog. But again, are 8-speed Road cassettes shorter? (I’ll probably be aiming for a 28t – 11t)
If you got this far, cheers for reading
Joe
