22.2 To 25.4 Bar Shim

WD Pro

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I need a very wide shim to suit a 'fat head' stem. I want it to be plastic and and don't want to use two shortened shims to get the length I want.

As I dont seem to be able to find what I want (unless anyone could advise otherwise 8)) I am going to make one :D

So does anyone know where can get some 22.2pm id plastic pipe ?

As I now have access again to a basic bench top lathe, I will turn down the od to suit, cut it to lemgth, face it of and then slit it with the dremel :D

So, any ideas ? Plumbing pipe, gas pipe etc ? So long as it's a sensible colour (black, grey, white etc) and not brittle it should be ok :D

Cheers for any help / advice :D

WD :D
 
jamabikes":1ebh6ntb said:
if you have a lather couidn't you just ream out the i.d of an old alloy handle bar?

Good idea but I don't have access to boring bars or reamers yet :-(

In the past I did ok with stuff as we had a full workshop and two good sized lathes :D then they closed manufacturing the workshop got striped :-(

The small lathe I have found now is in a box room at the back of the lab - it was used to turn samples down from the lead pots for analasis - I haven't even found a chuck for the tail stock yet so can't even drill / tap :oops: :lol:

Been thinking about a use shim of the right thickness with the top chopped off and the slot widened so it will close down :D

WD :D
 
There seems to be plenty of 1" id with 1/16" wall round these parts

so I can't see why it wouldn't be avail in the next obvious size down?

Slightly left thinking, What about a length of Fibre reinforced bush?
 
there was a seller on ebay that had the original Syncros alum shims for the extra wide Cattleprod/head stems. but i haven't seen it listed for a while now as i was thinking of picking up one. i know that doesn't really help you, but thought i'd let you know.
 
Just a quick update with a quote from the airborne build, I finally finished the shim :oops: :

WD Pro":1utgjxba said:
The combination of Titec bars and Titec fat head stem means that the standard bar shim isn’t wide enough :? (Old shim at the back) :

DSC05664.jpg


I couldn’t find a shim wide enough so I made the new shim from a USE thermoplastic seat post shim, cut down with a widened slot so it clamps down (leaving a 3mm gap). I got a 25.0mm to 28.2mm shim i.e. 1.6mm wall thickness. 22.2mm (bar) +1.6mm + 1.6mm = 25.4mm (stem clamp).

From left to right – Standard USE shim (but this one’s ally, and going back ...) – modified shim – original shim :

DSC05655.jpg


WD :D

WD :D
 
Well I have been asked by pm how I did this so I might as well post my method up here for future reference :D

Like most things there are a load of different ways to do this but my method needed :

Lathe
USE Post (this won't get a mark on it - if your careful ;-))
Masking tape
Thick tie wraps
Steel rule
Sharp knife
Long nose pliers
Some stiff right angle shape (12" length)
Emory (600 ish)

I will try and explain without pics but any questions, just ask and I will do a pic just of that stage.

Mount post in lathe - bottom sticking out.
Slide shim on leaving it to overlap the end of the post a bit.
Add a layer of masking tape around the shim (this is only surface finish protection for the next stage).
Tie wrap shim to post firmly (3 tie wraps).
Face of end of shim.
Only take very small cuts. A deep cut will cause the shim to move. To fast / long will cause the plastic to melt when it's cut.
Once the end is neat (mine was a bit messy direct from use :-() with the lathe still spinning, put a nice finish on the end with the emory.
Cut the tie wraps and remove the shim.
Put it on the post the other way around and repeat the above until the shim is the desired length.
You should now have a plain sleeve of the right length but to long to clamp around / down on the bars.
Fit the shim over the bars, coil it around tightly and mark where the end overlaps.
Slide the shim back on the post and using the steel rule and the sharp knife, score a deep line along the length of the shim in line with the mark from the above.
Remove the shim off the post.
Use the long nose pliers to hold as much of the plastic you want to remove as possible and bend the shim inwards - the excess will snap off cleanly / easily.
Check the fit on the bars.
Cut a length of emory, about 10" long and 2" wide.
Fold it in half so you have a 10x1x1" emory right angle.
Pit this on the right angled bar and secure the ends with masking tape.
Rub the gap of the shim squarely up and down the right angle.
File the gap enough to provide a neat finish and a couple of mm gap when the shim is wrapped tightly around the bar.

If you understand the above and follow each step you will end up with a shim exactly like mine :D

If you don't have access to a lathe I think it would be quite possible to use the same method but hold the seat post in a vice and chop to length using a hack saw and file / emory the ends to the right length / until square :D You could use the end of the post as a gauge of how level you are - even if you catch it with the file it is hidden in the frame :D

Hope this helps :D

WD :D
 
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