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You've done a good thread hijack @Tio68 🤣 Usually it's me doing that. Those seals are basically NLA, and have been like that for a long time. Someone on here (or maybe IG) found a supplier for the DH4 but they're the M4 which came later and had a thinner cross section seal used. The best...

Thread looks quite coarse as some of these bespoke bolts are. To the OP; measure the gap from the peak of the first thread to the last one and divide by the number of threads. It'll come out as 1.5 or 1.75, which will be the pitch. M8 x 1.5 is fairly standard coarse thread, M8 x 1.75 will be...

Ahh, I can't help then unfortunately, I mis-read you.

They were around in early 1996 so definitely not too far out, by mid '97 the BAM stuff was already available. The problem with the earlier models like the XC700 or DH3 is that, like RS and Manitou stuff of the era, spares are basically NLA. The Pace RC35 might work if a true MY94 fork is...

Which 165mm ones are you after, and which 203mm ones do you have?

If it's up to 96 then I'd say 80mm is the max travel it would have come with. Z1's were only just launched and Warner was racing some WC's on them, and they were 100mm travel. The Judy DH was 80mm and standard Judy's were 63mm, and the Pace RC36 first gen was 76mm. If you wanted something that...

Which type are you after? There are three versions of Bulbs; Mk1 - 5 bolt via a removable spider Mk2 - 6 bolt with disc tabs going all the way to the flange Mk3 - 6 bolt with truncated disc tabs, sealed at the inner end (as opposed to the Pro II which was open)

I think many, many companies over-reached themselves post Covid. The world is currently a scary place, people can't afford to heat their homes and eat, and the vast majority of their target audience, despite appearances, are those who don't actually have a huge amount of spare cash. Yes, there...

If you can get a steerer with the correct tolerance at the interface then it should be easy enough for a decent tuner like Sprung or JTech to replace it with a longer one.

I've avoided commenting on anything about Rampage as I can't be bothered typing it out on a phone to become a little snippet on Instagram. I've hit a lot of big stuff in my time and taken a lot of risks on a bike, both while racing and just going out riding. But all of the decisions have been...

It is, but if you jumped on an F1 wishbone it would snap pretty easily. Carbon's great for things where you know what forces are going to be applied, and where you can control the damage, but a lot less good when it's open to all manner of customer misuse combined with gram counting. In road and...

PM'd

Pretty sure this is how I did it until I got the larger end on the Park tool. Any suitably sized washers will do the same job too.

Yep, not normally my favourite look but they work well, especially with the silver cranks.

I'll take them. PM incoming.

It'll have been galvanic corrosion between the stainless steel and the aluminium, especially if there's mag in the lowers. A suggestion for future stubborn bolts is to soak for a few days to a week (if you know it's going to be really stubborn) in Bulldog BDX which is amazing stuff.

If you want to get the dent out I'd consider speaking to a local good (and I will emphasise that point) PDR guy. I've got a local one here I use from time to time who's excellent and loves all sorts of interesting challenges. A seat clamp on at the top to prevent distortion there and I reckon...

I'll go with that option I think, please ;) I need another spare tyre I'll never use like a hole in the head. Want to PM me your PayPal? Cheers

Cool, how much do you want for it posted?

Would you be willing to split the Michelin Comp 15 out from the pair?