Recent content by danson67

Yes, the potential for damage is from the bursting stress caused by an overly tight press fit. This is present whether the bike is ridden or not. Best to remove the headset and fit a looser tolerance one, or adjust the fit by reaming/turning the frame/cups etc. so that the interference is in...

I've not come across any specific problems with Kona Easton 7005 frames. By 96-98, Kona were a little later to the alu game than some. Others made the mistakes first...but best to measure first anyway. Make sure that the headtube bore is reamed out to the looser end of the tolerance...in an alu...

A bit harsh 🙂 I'd go as far as over priced, over rated and a bit fat 🤔😀 Like seatposts or stems...they all have a simple job to do, and generally do it perfectly well. All the best,

OK, it's not because of hardening of the 7005 material. That's already done and finished soon after the frame was built. Additional time barely increases tensile strength etc Manufacturers will usually carry out an artificial age cycle post-weld (Put it in an oven, 10hrs @ 150°C, or similar)...

I'm going on Friday...:) All the best,

For the barrel adjusters (or just as stops), there are some very nice brass ones available for frame gear adjusters. M5, they are designed with a stainless spring, but you could have a plain brass M5 nut to lock it. Un-slotted, though🤔 I got mine from Peter @ Ceeway, and have a few spare sets...

I have them along with the Italian BB taps and BB facing cutters that are also needed. Get them from Peter at Ceeway..Silva Art 616: https://www.ceeway.com/Sundry-Components.htm All the best,

Hi Hubar, Just connecting with you about having a BB re-threaded. All the best,

As you can see, I have plenty of the bushings...I can send you a set if you want. I've also got the AMP pressing tool for getting the pivots and bushes out and in. All the best,

Here are a few AMP parts specs that I've gleaned over the years. As you say, the AMP manuals are a bit opaque on actual specs, but all the small parts for the frame and forks are actually standard off-the-shelf stuff. Some of the brake piston seals etc seem to be harder... I have a few NOS...

One small snag... On fitting the Reynolds sticker, turns out I bought the French one :rolleyes: ...ironic for an English Cycles. English replacement is winging it's way here. All the best,

I looked at the mudguards after a good clean. Failing to find any decent solvent-based adhesive that would work, I made a plastic weld of the thin outer surface to tack it together in position, then used hot-melt glue to fix a splint to the inside of the cracked area. Rear Shimano XT axle...

OK...it's all done now, but I'll run through the rest of the process. Once the frame was back from having the decals reproduced, I could strip some paint and have a really good look at the chainstay crack. 3/4 of the way around :confused: So I cut through the rest to expose the x-section...

Repairable, but I don't like the look of that head tube crack.:confused: Mine has the same, and the typical one around the ST/TT joint. I'll get around to repairing it one day. Decal sets are available. All the best,