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@Gruff ? All the best,

Here's some info for anyone who ever needs to remove the RC300 top tube hose guides. -There's an aluminium sleeve pressed into a machined black nylon part: -Using an expanding bearing puller, with the end flange ground off (or anything that can grip the inside bore tightly), the sleeve can...

Yes, you'll need a 1-1/8" crown (or a 1-1/4" one with the shim). Maybe see if someone will swap for your 1" one. All the best,

Thanks, but I already have the hub, and it's a special one, so has to be 36h to match. All the best,

Also..M5 rivnuts would require a 7.5mmØ hole, while M5 brazed fittings typically use a 6mm or 1/4" (6.3mm) Ø hole and a have an 8mm head flange. Consequently, you'd have a really loose fit and alignment trouble if you just reuse the rivnut holes later for silver brazing. I'd go for clamp-on...

As above...I can find loads of 27-1-1/4" ones around, but nothing in 700c...and plenty of Mod 3 or MA40 ones, but they're too narrow. Only one needed, but happy to buy a pair if necessary. All the best,

Yes, PM your details and I'll get it sent. Yours for the postage cost. All the best,

The general leading link, top spring layout has been knocking around for a century among bikes and motorbikes. This is the same fork as the Kona Future Shock...The name was changed after litigation threats from Specialized because of their own Future Shock telescopic fork trade name (which the...

I've got a Y-11, carbon front, alu rear with shock. Looks like the rear has been freshly repainted sparkly gold, but the front's original with scrapes and scuffs: Yours for the postage. All the best,

The TT ding could be rolled and filled at fairly low cost You'd probably be looking for a respray anyway. All the best,

If you've got a Pace fork with a clamp-in steerer, I can make a new longer one for you. I have 1"Ø threadless steerer blanks (but can be threaded) up to 320mm overall, so roughly 290mm usable length once fitted...and up to 450mm (420mm usable) in 1-1/8"Ø threadless. All the best,

What you're after is generally known as a cap head (or socket head) bolt (or screw)🤔. Like punctuation pedants, some engineers will fight to the death over which they believe is which :rolleyes:, but it really doesn't really matter. Hex head has a hexagonal head to fit a spanner, cap head uses...

Repairable, though. I spliced a whole new top section into an Ultimate many years ago: Lumpy tube from bad reaming and a crack repair: Replace with this fresh tube: Cut out seat tube and file back joints to the original mitre surfaces: Machine a 2-way plug to join the original seat...

Some idle calculations while I was updating the Serial Number list: % of frames that appear to have survived (roughly, on out record etc...) RC100 51/372 13.7% RC200 F1 21/149 14.0% RC200 F2 63/200 31.0% RC200 F3 32/201 15.5% RC200 F4 13/109 11.9% RC200 F5 23/262 8.7% RC200...

I have one going spare for the postage :) 1st dibs to @44Racing if he didn't find one. All the best,

Just to clarify this for future generations :) If the headtube is an extrusion with the two flanges on the back, it's a 1"Ø steerer. (RC100 to RC200 F5, 1996) If it's got a fully round headtube, plain or stepped (with or without the crack ;)), then it's 1-1/8"Ø steerer. (RC200 F6 onwards...

Any anodising company will insist that they are removed. The sulphuric acid acid will corrode the steel parts to iron oxide, which pock marks the nearby aluminium and contaminate the acid tank. All the best,

Which model do you have, Ian?🤔 Mk2 has the flat face plate bolted on, Mk3 has the hollow CNC brace at the front. The Mk2 has a couple of 608 (std skate) bearings and the rest are bronze bushings with grease injection ports inside the axles. The Mk3 is 608 bearings all round, so those can just...

Retroforks website from Poland is pretty comprehensive: https://retroforksbike.pl/en/ All the best,

There were the Campag-branded Look off-road ones. And before that, the enormous Euclid ones. But for late 90s/early 2000s, I think I'll have to go French, so Look or Time. All the best,