Recommend me some brakes

Takingabreak

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Suggestions welcomed from the retrobike massif.

My latest purchase is a titanium light touring frame, I mostly know which parts I will build it up with and am leaning towards campag 10 speed triple rather than shimano (both are in the mancave stash). However, going with campag means I am in need of some non shimano v brakes or cantis (I'm more inclined to fit v brakes with travel agents than cantis)

Thoughts? (other than why didn't I buy a frame with disc brakes)
 
For a touring bike, would vintage Campy MTB canti's not be a nice fit?
I don't know what wra any of your parts are or if you're trying for era specific.
Obviously Paul make nice brakes that are more enduring than era-specific.
 
Tektro make some nice ones. They have inbuilt cable adjusters too

I have a set of Kore but they are hard to find

I also have a set of SRP Mr. Grumpy cantilevers, equally getting harder to find

Froggleg are now all but non existent but great lightweight if you can find them

However, all of the above are wide and can stick out a bit at the back possibly giving clearance issues on some frames

It is a bit of a dying art though

Have fitted a few travel agents for other people, fiddly and a bit faffy.

I personally go for v brake specific road levers and barend shifters

Then there's fork judder, cured with a brake booster.

Mr. Grumpy

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Kore!

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Hmm, no love for v's with travel agents. I have used them previously and thought they worked well.

Whereas cantis, I seem to struggle with setting them up, though I do have some cx50's on my Yates which I'm pleased with.

I've seen some litepro skeleton type v brakes online and thought they might suit a campy set up as campy make skeleton road brakes but they do look like they might be a tad flexible. Maybe I don't go down the campy route at all and stick with shimano and use deore v's.

Anyone for avid single digit v brakes?
 
I have Shimano br-r353 mini V's which I like a lot. Very easy to set up and work perfectly with road levers. These have more space for tyres than most.

shimano-br-r353-compact-v-brake-fw-black-897203.webp

For cantilevers I love the Dia Compe DC980

dia-compe-dc980-cantilever-remklauwen.webp
 
I have a bunch of canti's in boxes and bags that i have used. 2 bikes worth of Frogglegs in blue and black, a set of M900 with an extra front pair, M650's, and a set of Avid Shorty Ultimate and i can honestly say that they were all about the same as each other. All used with the same BXP pads , Paul Moon Unit hangers, and 9 speed Campag Ergo or Sram Rival 2nd gen style drop bar levers.

Frogglegs the lightest and with TRP Inplace adjustable pad holders you can dial in the toe , without bending anything. Great for mud clearance, but the brass bushings wear and get sloppy on the posts really quickly and the nuts are made of cheese so use the right spanner and don't let the threads seize. I used cable adjusters ,that fitted into the arms ,with mine. Not sure what brake they were supposed to be used with.

M900's worked as brakes and that is about it. The only problem i had was the thread for the grub screw ,that you use for centralising the arms , was not to full depth. This meant i could not balance them properly and it did my head in until i realised the grub screw was not allowed to go ,what was probably only 1mm more, into the arm. Bad batch, or common issue and not realised?. Sorted that with a tap but can't remember the thread size.

M650's worked as brakes and that is about it. They are cheap and work.

Avid Shorty Ultimates are well made, and look good, but I am glad i didn't pay anywhere near full price for them. They work well, but they are absolutely not some great advancement in canti brake performance. I used them in both positions and stuck with the position that doesn't catch pedestrians, as you cycle past.
If you use them; make sure you tap out the barrel, that has the wee grub screw, that pinches the straddle cable and grease the thread. The grub screw can seize fast in the barrel , very easily, and the provided screws are made of cheese. Replacing these grub screws with better quality screws is a good move, too. Worth doing because replacement barrels are not cheap.
Also; a mod for the rear is to do away with the straddle adjuster barrel and replace it with another pinch barrel. I did this because i managed to kick the adjuster out of its barrel when dismounting, which seems easier to do than you would think. I noticed this is a mod that cyclocrossers were doing so it is a thing , and not just me and clumsy feet.
The stupidly thin o-rings, that are on the barrels, are very prone to snapping, vanishing, degrading etc so bear that in mind too.

If a gun was put to my head and i was asked to choose i think i would choose the Campag levers with the Frogglegs, or the Sram levers with the 650's as they were the two set ups that made me say, "ooh!....my brakes work well". I got the M900's working really well at one point, but i struggled to find the magic setup after a dis-assembly. I think the way forward would be making a jig , once the setup is spot on, you could use for repeatability. Something more accurate than eyeballing angles anyway.

What i learnt from all of the playing about with angles and straddle heights was lever flex and ratio, post position, cable routing and quality, cable stops and hanger all play big roles in performance and what works for one, may not work for another if you change any of the parameters.
Sometimes, as with the very first time i used the Campag levers and Frogglegs, you can casually slap it all together and you wonder what all the fuss was about. Other times it can always remain frustratingly close to brilliant no matter how hard you try.

Then it rains and you wonder why you bothered.
 
Thanks everyone, plenty of good info given to me.

Somewhere I do have a set of tektro CR710 cantis that have never been used but I think I'm heading down the v or mini v route. The post from @Frankenorange reminds me of my own trials and tribulations with cantis over the years.

I do have some shimano 353 mini v's and also some deore T610 v brakes to hand but it feels wrong to use shimano with a campag set up unless......

I wipe the logos off with acetone
 
i never used the Travel agent but have been told they have a tight angle for the brake cable that tends to break it within a couple of years. Not that it is unusable but something to keep in mind
With the travel agent there is a tight angle on the cable as it goes from one wheel to the next but there isn't really any movement between the cable and pulley wheel in use as the wheel moves with the cable under braking. I guess it is a stress raiser on the cable to keep an eye on but it seems a minimal risk of failing. More something to check when doing general maintenance
 
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