Comparing 1x vs. 2x by the numbers.

Retrorockit

Retro Guru
Having modded my old 3x8 XC bike to 1x11 using a Zee M640 derailleur intended for 2x10s DH bikes. I wondered what if anything I was missing out on.
I ran both setups at Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Gear Calculator.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html
42x11-42t 11s top gear = 26.5mph @ 90rpm, and 6.9mph @ 90rpm in the lowest gear.
using 42t,32t 2x, and 11-32t 10s cassette top and low gears were the same.
So the capacity of the derailleur seems to be equal at both ends. Both cassettes used the same top gears, so no advantage in this case for closer ratios at higher speeds.
But I did test a much tighter 11-28 cassette with wider spread chainrings rings in the front. This provided much closer gears at the top end, and also closer gears at the bottom too. 2x gives more clearance for bigger front ring to the frame.
So road bike type gearing at the top is possible with that type cassette
My Front Freewheel Mod made 1x the best option for me due to chain management concerns favoring a Narrow/Wide chain ring and SS cage derailleur. My relaxed pace and flat terrain favor 1x also.
So I would say 2x is still valid if you go narrow on the cassette and wide on the chainring sizes.
 
I wondered what if anything I was missing out on.

Probably something a lot of people wonder about, to be honest.

So I would say 2x is still valid if you go narrow on the cassette and wide on the chainring sizes.

I noted the industry went from:
3x9
2x10
1x11
The industry seemed to lose a chainring and add a rear sprocket. As such, I really thought 0x12 would have been the next logical step.

Anyway, over the years I have run the following gearing on MTBs...

3x7, 3x8, 3x9, 2x10, 2x9, 2x10, 1x10, 1x11, 1x12 and 1x1.

In my MTB fleet I still have 3x7, 3x8, 3x9, 1x10, 1x11, 1x12 and 1x1.

My conclusions, after extensive testing of various drivetrain combinations over the years, are as follows:

1. I like riding bikes.
2. Don't overthink it.
3. See No.1.
 
Both my bikes went from 2004 3x8 to 1x8 Ebike, 1x11 XC bike. I skipped 2x completely. So I looked into it.
At the top of the cassettte there are only 2 possible gear spreads, 1t jump (11t to 12t), or 2t jump (11t to 13t). If you have a tiny MTB chainring that may not be a problem. With a bigger road ring it might make a difference. I'm stuck with 1x on my bikes for other reasons. But 2x still has value.
I would leave 3x to loaded touring/cargo bikes (same thing?).
 
I just lean towards 1x because narrow wide chainrings truly are amazing, with a clutch equipped rear derailleur i have simply never dropped a chain.
Even on the new downhill bike with a zee rear derailleur as well (though the longer cage one) running 1x10 the chain barely wiggles around.

I see the advantages of 2x/3x and ive experienced them, but chain retention is more important to me than being able to single shift the front to drop or raise gearing. Id rather just fiddle with more gears in the rear.
 
I agree with chain retention on 1x. I'm running a Front Freewheel setup with a locked out rear freewheel. This can actually push slack into the top of the chain. N/W ring, and SS cage Zee are handling it with the clutch turned off. No hard MTB use though. But the clutch is there if needed for that.
The Ebike needed a more elaborate upper chain retention method. No N/W ring, and no Zee derailleur there. Eventually I would like a Saint M800 on there. But rear axle mod will be needed for that.
 
For years 2x5 was the definition of an "English Racer" here in the US. Even if it was a Schwinn. For people of a certain age this is what "10 speed" means.
 
Sturmey Archer for the win. 1x3. Once you have ridden a fixed gear, you realise you can comfortably ride with a cadence anywhere between 60 and 120.
 
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