Change rims from 26 inch to 27 inch

There are several considerations. The frame needs lots of clearance. You will need go down in tire width, even if there is lots of tire clearance. It's obviously easier to make the conversion if you're using disc brakes. Rim brakes do exist that will accommodate larger rims but you will need to research options. Then you need to consider the fork. The arch on a suspension fork can also cause a problem.
 
You best bet is to borrow a pair of wheels and see what fits.

You can usual get a gravelly 27.5 into a mtb 26 - like this:
View attachment 971960
Farewell, Edgy.
A 653 fillet-brazed disc hybrid at £515 😍

£1265 total income (inc Vat)
£550 costs.

(Sounds good,
but it costs £2/minute to keep the shop open!)

And quite a few hours spent:
collecting,
testriding,
selling,
thinking,
brazing,
building,
Test riding
Selling.

It's been a lot of fun, and now you are ready to head back out onto the road to be used properly.

Given this bike was so little used from new
(1 pair of pads were original)...

a race- level mtb from 1993,

But by 95 you would expect a suspension fork and v- brakes, so unlikely on the start line!
(Simmer down there or ill call security😉)

but it was too expensive to pass straight down to your nephew who wanted a bike for his paper round!

I'm hoping it's going to get a lot more use in its new 27five disc incarnation🤞

It seems a lot more Futureproof.
View attachment 971961

The End.
 
I'm all for reusing what you have and find most of what the cycling industry is pushing on people nowadays is mostly just mass unchecked consumption for consumptions sake. Which is why I'm into the "Retro/Relic" thing.
But it might be easier to get a 90's flatbar hybrid and throw some fatties on it. They are plentiful and can be had for the price of canti extenders if you are patient. The geometry change of raising the bottom bracket after the jump in 26-700-27.5 rim size can be off putting to some. Supposedly it makes the bike feel like a boat without a keel. And you would have to size down in frame size to make up for the higher toptube and giblet clearance. Which might make the saddle to handlebar drop uncomfortable to some people.

But hey to each there own. If you do go this route, post up some pics! I'd love to see your build and hear your thoughts on it!
 
Cheers you have told me things there that never even entered my head I knew thinner tyres and rigid forks I keep seeing these 700 wheels the price etc and thinking wow if there were 26inch be 3x the price
 
Cheers you have told me things there that never even entered my head I knew thinner tyres and rigid forks I keep seeing these 700 wheels the price etc and thinking wow if there were 26inch be 3x the price

Disc allows us to swap wheel size.

but you can buy decent 26s used for peanuts because mtbers are clearing out their sheds.

As a rule price determines quality.
Beware cheap wheels.

27.5 is about a half inch larger in radius, so if you swap a 26x2.1 (around 52mm) for a 27.5x40, you'll get roughly the same o.d. and in turn the same bb height.

A 700 is an additional 3/4", so it would probably need to be super narrow to fit and not feel weird.
 
Disc allows us to swap wheel size.

but you can buy decent 26s used for peanuts because mtbers are clearing out their sheds.

As a rule price determines quality.
Beware cheap wheels.

27.5 is about a half inch larger in radius, so if you swap a 26x2.1 (around 52mm) for a 27.5x40, you'll get roughly the same o.d. and in turn the same bb height.

A 700 is an additional 3/4", so it would probably need to be super narrow to fit and not feel weird.
Not to be contrary, maybe I'm missing something, but it sure does look like a difference to me.

Here's a 700x33 and a 26x2.1... the 26 barely reaches the brake track of the the 700c and the hub only comes up to the quick release.
 

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