1:4 scale Ritchey P20, this is going to take a while...

It was the UK qualifiers for the Pump Track World Championships this weekend. I had the job of designing/making the trophies for it.

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Halo Twin Rail tyre modelled in CAD.
I was going to use the tyre moulds from the Yeti build to save a bit of time, but couldn't live with the unsuitability of such a tyre for an asphalt track.


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Resin printed tyre half. 3d printing one tyre half took about 8 hours, so I took a silicone mould to cast more in polyurethane.

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Hubs were printed in two halves with a separate freewheel.
 
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Laser engraved acrylic disc to hold the text. The numbers around the outside are the lacing sequence for a continuous length of fishing line to make the spokes...

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...then the resin cast tyre halves sandwich the disc. A quick bead of filler takes car of the join between the two halves.

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Then mount it on an acrylic base made of scrap/reclaimed acrylic from old architectural model covers, and apply some waterslide tranfers to the tyre sidewalls.
 
As someone just getting started in resin printing what was the decision making rationale for the printing angle of the tyre half? Was to avoid supports for the tread blocks?
 
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The event needed trophies for the top four finishers in the elite mans and women races.
Unfortunately, I found out that there were kids' races on the day before. If I didn't make trophies for them too I would not be able to sleep at night. That meant ten more trophies than I was actually asked to do.

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I went retro for the over 40s...
Skinwall/Umma Gumma/3DV.
Proper.
This was more to amuse myself than anything else.
 
As someone just getting started in resin printing what was the decision making rationale for the printing angle of the tyre half? Was to avoid supports for the tread blocks?
Exactly that. There is a diamond knurl pattern of the tread that would be obliterated by supports. Try to keep the supports somewhere that you can sand and fill without causing problems.
 
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