Stuck steel on steel
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Tc":31xq6o0k said:
coupla weeks with a steady seepage of 3in1. if you can get a quill stem inside the post, makes things easier.
plusgas could be the answer or any other similar product.
the quill stem down the seatpost solution is a good trick too, especially when t'other end of the quill is in a vice and you use the whole frame as leverage to crack the corrosion free from itself.
if soaking doesn't work there is always the heat approach but this needs to be done with some degree of care so as not to overheat & potentially weaken the tubing.
the quill stem down the seatpost solution is a good trick too, especially when t'other end of the quill is in a vice and you use the whole frame as leverage to crack the corrosion free from itself.
if soaking doesn't work there is always the heat approach but this needs to be done with some degree of care so as not to overheat & potentially weaken the tubing.
incorrigible
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My personal experience with a severely stuck seat post:
2 or 3 weeks soaked in Aero-Kroil (Aerosol version of Kano-Kroil) and then steadily increasing torque first one way, then the other. A 6-foot cheater bar definitely helped to increase leverage. I could tell when I was reaching the limit of the tubing's strength from the way it twisted and flexed under stress. I figured as long as I didn't cross over that limit that I'd be OK. I also tapped the top of the seat post with a metal hammer while it was being torqued to try to jar some of the rust loose.
It required a lot of patience. After torqueing it back and forth without any luck, I soaked it again for another week, and then tried it again, back and forth. Once I sensed some movement in one direction, I twisted in the opposite direction, steadily increasing torque up to a point, then back in the other direction again. Back and forth, each time yielding a bit more freedom of movement until I was able to substantially rotate the post in the tube while pulling it out bit by bit.
I'd say give it a try, and if you still can't loosen it, soak it some more and try again in another week. Sooner or later the Aero-Kroil should find its way into every little crevice and dissolve the rust. The manufacturer claims that Kroil will creep its way into 1/1,000,000 of an inch gaps!
Kroil has an odor to it, so leave the whole mess in the shed while it soaks. I even used a rag soaked in Kroil wrapped around the seat-tube-to-seat-post junction and checked it daily to make sure it was still damp. If it wasn't, I just sprayed some more of that magic stuff on the rag until it was damp again. I also had a drip pan underneath everything to contain any leakage.
http://www.kanolabs.com
....and, NO, I don't get a commission for recommending it. Just trying to help.
Good luck!
2 or 3 weeks soaked in Aero-Kroil (Aerosol version of Kano-Kroil) and then steadily increasing torque first one way, then the other. A 6-foot cheater bar definitely helped to increase leverage. I could tell when I was reaching the limit of the tubing's strength from the way it twisted and flexed under stress. I figured as long as I didn't cross over that limit that I'd be OK. I also tapped the top of the seat post with a metal hammer while it was being torqued to try to jar some of the rust loose.
It required a lot of patience. After torqueing it back and forth without any luck, I soaked it again for another week, and then tried it again, back and forth. Once I sensed some movement in one direction, I twisted in the opposite direction, steadily increasing torque up to a point, then back in the other direction again. Back and forth, each time yielding a bit more freedom of movement until I was able to substantially rotate the post in the tube while pulling it out bit by bit.
I'd say give it a try, and if you still can't loosen it, soak it some more and try again in another week. Sooner or later the Aero-Kroil should find its way into every little crevice and dissolve the rust. The manufacturer claims that Kroil will creep its way into 1/1,000,000 of an inch gaps!
Kroil has an odor to it, so leave the whole mess in the shed while it soaks. I even used a rag soaked in Kroil wrapped around the seat-tube-to-seat-post junction and checked it daily to make sure it was still damp. If it wasn't, I just sprayed some more of that magic stuff on the rag until it was damp again. I also had a drip pan underneath everything to contain any leakage.
http://www.kanolabs.com
....and, NO, I don't get a commission for recommending it. Just trying to help.
Good luck!
Oh dear, sorry to read this TC.
From my years dealing with British motorcycles in varying states of decay: All of the above, regarding soaking, I have also built a little reservoir using Plastacine (in the past) or blutack which will hold some of the releasing agent in constant contact with the joint. Then, heat and cool; in this case just keep the heat to the seat post, get it nice and hot (not so hot that it damages the paint on the frame) then squirt WD40, GT85 or similar onto the joint. Repeat this, giving the seat post a good twist after each application.
No method is guaranteed, but this one has worked for me on countless occasions.
Good luck.
From my years dealing with British motorcycles in varying states of decay: All of the above, regarding soaking, I have also built a little reservoir using Plastacine (in the past) or blutack which will hold some of the releasing agent in constant contact with the joint. Then, heat and cool; in this case just keep the heat to the seat post, get it nice and hot (not so hot that it damages the paint on the frame) then squirt WD40, GT85 or similar onto the joint. Repeat this, giving the seat post a good twist after each application.
No method is guaranteed, but this one has worked for me on countless occasions.
Good luck.
Just had to do this with a alloy seatpost in a steel frame, should be more stuck than steel on steel but after two weeks of adding plus gas it finally moved and a few days later (today) I was able to extract it. It is a ampag seatpost so I was not going to sarifice it.
It will come out - LGF's method is perfect for shifting a post if you can sacrifice it.
It will come out - LGF's method is perfect for shifting a post if you can sacrifice it.
