Why do I prefer larger frames?

[markyp]

The issue with smaller frames is that the seat tube gets steeper (to avoid foot/front wheel overlap) the seat-tube gets steeper.....thus this feeling of being too far forward is not necessarily due to the top-tube being too short. I'm 5'6" but ride a 52cm frame with a 8cm stem and the saddle pushed right back.

 

[iow tom]

The size of my raleigh...
BB (top) to TT (top)= 22"
BB (top) to seat (top)= 25" (normally i have that as 27" but then seats too high from bars)
TT length = 20"
Back of seat to front of bars (top of bars)= 31" (i have 32.5 or 33" on my mtbs)
Stem length 4.5"

Im 6ft 1" and i think my inside leg is 34....

 

[Woz]

Re:

Sadly, all these measurements are like comparing apples with pears and good for an indication at best.

Ideally you need the complete frame geometry and mention if you are using a layback post seatpost etc. so you are comparing apples with apples.

It only takes a half degree angle to throw these measurements out. At one time 72 degree parallel was the norm / common so in theory you could compare, but that is a massive generalisation.

From the first page I can see the second smaller bike as a shorter wheelbase and you are far too cramped up.

 

[iow tom]

I find all the frame sizing so confusing.
Such a hassle to take all the bar tape off to try another stem or to move all the parts to a larger frame to test it etc.

Ill figure something out.
Anyway, back to original post...

 

[pigman]

The size of my raleigh...
BB (top) to TT (top)= 22"
BB (top) to seat (top)= 25" (normally i have that as 27" but then seats too high from bars)
TT length = 20"
Back of seat to front of bars (top of bars)= 31" (i have 32.5 or 33" on my mtbs)
Stem length 4.5"

Im 6ft 1" and i think my inside leg is 34....

I'd be amazed if the seat tube is 22" and the top tube is 20" ..... Unless it is a very special custom build. Typical would be 22 square, ie 22 seat and 22 top tubes. Some builders may vary one tube to another by maybe quarter inch, but anything else is a massive rarity (exclude sloping frames here)

 

[Woz]

I find all the frame sizing so confusing.
Such a hassle to take all the bar tape off to try another stem or to move all the parts to a larger frame to test it etc.

Ill figure something out.
Anyway, back to original post...

Agree. I learnt my lesson and will rarely buy something if I can't ascertain the complete geometry from catalogues etc. It can be a minefield. I also have a specific tat spare parts bin to just throw on new frames to check fit and get an idea how they handle. If it's wrong, they get stripped and sold on with no regrets pretty quick.

 

[iow tom]

Woz that sounds like a good idea...

Pigman i measure from the top of bb to top of top tube (usually works out the same as centre of each). I will re-measure tomorrow but im pretty certain thats the measurements.
However...i think the frame was a raleigh roadster. So it would have been SS or 3 gears in the rear hub. The previous owner turned it into a racer.
I dont know if that makes the slightest bit of difference?

 

[iow tom]

Ive re-measured...sorry my mistake (ive measured about 8 or 9 of my frames yesterday and got mixed up). 22" from bb to tt. 21"tt length.
Im measuring tt between head and seat (not centre of head and centre of seat or anything like that).
So an inch difference.

 

[M-Power]

Re:

Always tried to ride the smallest frame i could with a 23-23.3” TT for more technical stuff. I like to see a good bit of seat post. That being said larger frames are generally more comfy for all day rides, so i need both options.

 

[allenh]

I find all the frame sizing so confusing.
Such a hassle to take all the bar tape off to try another stem or to move all the parts to a larger frame to test it etc.

Ill figure something out.
Anyway, back to original post...

Agree. I learnt my lesson and will rarely buy something if I can't ascertain the complete geometry from catalogues etc. It can be a minefield. I also have a specific tat spare parts bin to just throw on new frames to check fit and get an idea how they handle. If it's wrong, they get stripped and sold on with no regrets pretty quick.

I have found this to my cost, older steel frames from the 70's and 80's I can adjust to fit quite easily in quite a range of sizes and given the choice do prefer a frame that should really be too big for me but with modern frames I have a nightmare even if the basic dimensions should be correct for me.

I used to try and persevere with them but now do exactly the same with a set of crap parts to check new frames out, and yes if they're wrong they're out.