V Brakes vs disc brakes - cost comparison

Off topic now I guess...Could it be very slight slippage of the wheel causing misalignment with the disc ?
If it happens all the time after a period of time ?
Try a better Q/R and/or check the dropout interface.


I'm not saying V's are better as that wasn't the argument but on a new/new basis for the same level V's are, it seems, cheaper.
Wheels cost the same, like for like, so I ignore that in the initial costs.

Rims are the consumable relative to the disc. I you're saying the disc doesn't wear and lasts forever or near enough then I can ignore that cost.
That give about 4 XC717 replacement in price difference. Call it 3 additional rims as I'm sure the rim pads wear out faster as an additional cost.
That's 20yrs (for me) to break even, even if cautious with rim wear, call it 3yr (at 1 to 2 rides a week). That's 9 yrs (12 total to pay back).
That's a '~retro period' again (e.g 1988-2000, 2000 - 2012 ...,... 2015- 2027
 
wookiee":39b8upqt said:
You wouldn't want smaller than 160mm to be honest.
Nah. On the rear, 140 is fine.
I ran 160/140 for a fair period a couple of years ago and had no issues, even racing marathons, with some significant descending. Only gone back to 180/160 as I only had one 140mm disc and need to keep three sets of wheels compatible. Just never got round to buying the extra two 140s (and I weigh around 85 kilos!)
 
You lot are braking too much! ;) I'm still on the same rear wheel after 10+ years.

Never come close to wearing a rim out maybe except for my '89 Stumpjumper but that was BITD when I used to ride a bit more and wasn't such a fair weather fairy... :)
 
Canti- rubbish
V brakes- semi-rubbish
Hydraulic- Theres a reason theyre fitted to 99% of everything with wheels ;)
 
mattr":3j8c12od said:
wookiee":3j8c12od said:
You wouldn't want smaller than 160mm to be honest.
Nah. On the rear, 140 is fine.
I ran 160/140 for a fair period a couple of years ago and had no issues, even racing marathons, with some significant descending. Only gone back to 180/160 as I only had one 140mm disc and need to keep three sets of wheels compatible. Just never got round to buying the extra two 140s (and I weigh around 85 kilos!)

Fair enough I guess it depends on what your riding style and trails are like. I weigh 110kgs and like the extra 20mm!
 
If you never ride in mud or the rain, then v brakes will work out cheaper.

Other advantage disc brakes have is you can still ride the bike if the rim has been damaged or bent. Oh, and there is no way a badly set up disc brake can wear through the tyre sidewall.... which can sometimes happen with a good set up due to pad wear that is not compensated for.
 
My original Hope C2 set up lasted ten years with very little required. And that was around 45,000 miles or so as I didnt drive. It was only killed off by a seized caliper and cracked hub.

Excellent value for money!

When I serviced commuter bikes rims and pads were ruined and a mechanics nightmare, we always recommended discs as a replacement.

As for which is best, for every 'good' disc/ v/ canti set up, I can show you a canti set up that outperforms a v-brake/ disc etc blah blah. But nobody takes the time anyway. But then I'd never recommend canti/ v for commuters.
 
legrandefromage":mm6o1fsp said:
When I serviced commuter bikes rims and pads were ruined and a mechanics nightmare, we always recommended discs as a replacement.
Indeed, when you explain to someone why their rims need replacing they are usually horrified as well. There's a big difference in price between a new set of disc pads and rebuilding a pair of wheels with new rims.

A lot of people don't realise that rims wear out and need replacing.
 
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