Understanding modern 29er boost forks?

ishaw

Gold Trader
GT Fan
Feedback
View
I've a wanted ad up for a set I need for a build, but in my search I've come across a few things and variations which have thrown things up in the air in terms of what's what.

I know there's stanchion diameter, then there's stanchion material, weight, travel, lower legs, damping, boost spacing etc. Then there's e bike forks too.

I started life thinking a set of 32mm rebas would do the job, but as mu frame is new and beefy, wondering if a step up to larger stanchions would be something to consider, something new for me.

If I consider just the rockshox range, there are various that use 35mm, but what is the real difference between them all as things look a lot similar to me.

I plan to build it up as a fairly light xc bike. Not trying too hard but using decent spec bits where I can.

So, on to forks. I get that RS TK silver is steel uppers Vs the gold lowers being alloy, but what are the real differences between the following forks as I'm a bit baffled by the similarity in some areas, chassis sharing etc.

So.....

35 TK gold
Revelation
Yari

I'm looking at 130mm ish travel, have seen various other options like fox 34, x-fusion, dvo but for my needs and modest second hand market budget, what would be the best bang for buck, and ideally available boos spacing fork?

Is it even worth stepping up to larger than 32mm?
 
I can't remember if it was your post or someone else's that I've recently waxed lyrical about them already, but I definitely recommend the Marzocchi Z2 which is basically a (slightly) more budget friendly fox 34 (34mm stanchions).
 
I think they have come up in a thread. The more I've read, they seem good but corners have been cut, down to things like no foam rings, barely any lube and a lower end damper. Apparently they (fox) recommend to fit foam rings when you first service them weird to scrimp on a part that must literally cost pennies.
 
Z2’s have an issue with no replaceable bushings I believe? Although they are great forks.

Personally I would want 34+ on a modern bike. Once you have ridden them moving back to 32 is noticeable, and I’m a featherweight.

Unless you are heavier (weight or use) I don’t see there is a need to add the weight and extra 1mm of stantion on the yari over revs or lyriks over pikes.

The rest is down to budget, but I’d rather some second hand revs for £200 than new golds or whatever else you could get for that price. Modern rockshox are pretty upgradable too, you can pop new air shaft in to change travel, change damper etc. so if you want can later upgrade.

Left field choice but I’m a massive fan of x-fusion forks as well.
 
Last edited:
Thanks, I'm usually an RS boy, know my way around them aside from charger so that's kind of my preference. Have read good things about x-fusion too. Keeping my eye out for either within my budget window. Pikes too, lyrik seem to be more travel than I'll need.
 
32's are noodley compared to bigger fork, to the point that even SID's come in 35mm these days! Only real difference between the Rev and Yari is the Yari's a bit burlier although the Rev is fine. The answer to your question (if sticking with RS) is Pike, however, much better damper and great forks.

Pike is a better Rev, same as Lyrik is a better Yari.
 
I've a wanted ad up for a set I need for a build, but in my search I've come across a few things and variations which have thrown things up in the air in terms of what's what.

I know there's stanchion diameter, then there's stanchion material, weight, travel, lower legs, damping, boost spacing etc. Then there's e bike forks too.

I started life thinking a set of 32mm rebas would do the job, but as mu frame is new and beefy, wondering if a step up to larger stanchions would be something to consider, something new for me.

If I consider just the rockshox range, there are various that use 35mm, but what is the real difference between them all as things look a lot similar to me.

I plan to build it up as a fairly light xc bike. Not trying too hard but using decent spec bits where I can.

So, on to forks. I get that RS TK silver is steel uppers Vs the gold lowers being alloy, but what are the real differences between the following forks as I'm a bit baffled by the similarity in some areas, chassis sharing etc.

So.....

35 TK gold
Revelation
Yari

I'm looking at 130mm ish travel, have seen various other options like fox 34, x-fusion, dvo but for my needs and modest second hand market budget, what would be the best bang for buck, and ideally available boos spacing fork?

Is it even worth stepping up to larger than 32mm?
We‘ve have had a lot of experience from Manitou 1s, Marzocchi and Judy’s to the latest Fox, Rockshox and Manitou. The latest forks differ a lot on how they do things - lots of different approaches re inner workings to getting performance.

I recently have been warned not to buy DVO or Manitou in terms of servicing parts. TF Tuned can get parts, others have problems. Fox and RS parts very serviceable and some good aftermarket refinements such as Luftkappe. X fusion do fabulous dropper posts (much better than RS in my view) but their forks not have much service support I think.

Key in all this is your own physique and riding practice. I worried that Fox40s would overpower my son, who is an 8-stone whippet so I bought Boxxer WCs for him, which turned out to be a brilliant, tough and highly responsive fork - good enough for top riders on the WC circuit….

I like the new top end rigid Rockshox - using torque caps on the axles. The Lyrik is light, tough, responsive. Very tuneable.
The lower end Rockshox (TK etc) are pretty lack lustre, revelation pretty noodly - pike, lyrik very good. I have Yari on my Sentinel but not as precise as the Lyriks on the Cotic. In Wales the Yaris felt a bit like a budget fork, really. Lyriks and Pike .. just point into the rock garden and they will get you through.

Now….travel….again depends on your weight and riding style….but I always overfork by 10-15mm, sagged to 30%, then ramped up spring by using tokens. This gives GENUINE small bump compliance - which its easy to tune OUT of a fork by mistake…and gives amazing ‘bottomless’ big hit capacity without horrible ramp up at the end of the stroke. There’s a sequence to follow re setting up which I still am mastering - get spring rate sorted, then rebound, then open slow speed compression to full, then put high speed in middle and play one click up and down as needed. It’s not magic but it is a Dark Art. I have just bought some 150mm Pikes for my mmmBop to replace the Manitou Mattocs (which are Sooo soft and lovely but need a bushing service (clonk clonk)) and looking forward to getting them up and running. Some great Pikes 29ers on Serious Cycling adverts in Pinkbike….200gbp. Gosh….

Lyriks….stiff (in a good way), sure-footed and responsive…

1669653509259.jpeg
 
Last edited:
post 2015 pikes. You can still rebuild them, updated air shafts, they're stiff, not too heavy etc. unless you want longer travel, then yari.
 
post 2015 pikes. You can still rebuild them, updated air shafts, they're stiff, not too heavy etc. unless you want longer travel, then yari.


I have found pikes and lyrik = in a good way

1669658623339.png

and yari = in a not so good way (I know they notionally are the same platform but they do seem to ride so differently)

1669658446091.png
 
Correct advice above. Basically the RS forks match each other up across the range depending on the damper used, with the more basic using Motion Control and better using Charger. You want something with the Charger damper, it's miles better, I've had both.

Revs = Pike.
Yari = Lyrik.
Reba = Sid.

With the price you can pick up new or second had versions of the above there's no point bothering with 35's, Gold, Silver, etc as they are just not as good and usually a load heavier. I believe you can now get various different versions of the good forks but providing you have some form of Charger you won't go far wrong. Don't worry about getting the wrong travel either as changing that is relatively cheap and easy.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top