Time to replace my canti studs? Advice needed

[Darcus]

Thanks everyone. The other bike I compared the stud wear against is a Thorn. It seems to have a white coating on the studs opposed to bare metal like mine. I have to say I didn't look in great detail but it seems to help the noise and chatter. Is there a coating or resistant grease I could try? Cheers Marcus

 

[Darcus]

Forgot to say... Lovely Overbury's by the way!

Thanks!

 

[Joe*Pro]

Your other option is to go for a 1994/95 Avid Tri-align v1 style canti which use a sleeve that’s glued/loctite to the boss, problem solved if they are period correct for your build.

 

[Darcus]

Your other option is to go for a 1994/95 Avid Tri-align v1 style canti which use a sleeve that’s glued/loctite to the boss, problem solved if they are period correct for your build.

Okay thanks I'll check them out

 

[Thias]

I'd go for a nice set of Magura brakes. If you can cope with the looks, they are the best brakes hands down imo.
The early hydrostops might even have the correct vintage. A set of faded but working racelines cost 50 Euro here in Germany and I think it's well worth it.

Other than that, I don't hink you would need to swap the studs. The squiek can occur with basically any stud to cantilever to rim combination. You can try different brake pads, clean and sand the rims, mess with cable geometry. Might help.

 

[greencat]

Your other option is to go for a 1994/95 Avid Tri-align v1 style canti which use a sleeve that’s glued/loctite to the boss, problem solved if they are period correct for your build.

Another option is to go for Suntour SE brakes (only fit on the back): https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brakes/0-suntour-selfenergising-se-cantilever-brakes-rear/

 

[Thias]

So there actually is someone who likes the "self energizing" brakes?

 

[greencat]

So there actually is someone who likes the "self energizing" brakes?

Haven't had a bike with them on for 25 years, but loved them back in the day.

 

[Ren Rawbor]

Agreed it's likely a bushing/pad issue more than the stud itself. But as mentioned our bikes are not getting any younger & I suppose wear to the actual stud (or more likely damage IMO) is going to become more of a potential issue.

That got me thinking though, in industrial/agricultural applications there's a product used on worn shafts/sealing surfaces called a speedy sleeve where basically the damaged surface is machined a few thou undersize & an appropriate thickness steel sleeve is shrink-fitted over that to bring the OD back to spec. It's be a bit different on a bike frame/fork as you couldn't just turn them down in a lathe but I imagine jigging up in a mill would be possible? Might get expensive, but could be a more paint-friendly way than having a frame builder replace the stud...

 

[Takingabreak]

a couple of wraps of plumbers ptfe tape to take up the slack between stud and brake bushing