Time to replace my canti studs? Advice needed

[Darcus]

Hiya, I've been getting a horrible and consistent squeak from my front brake, on closer inspection there's quite a bit of play from the brake arms. I have compared the play on another newer bike and swapped brakes to compare, and It definitely seems to be the case that the studs are worn in comparison. I think the stud needs replacing. What's the best procedure for this? Is there a work around? Big job?? Thanks! 1989 Overburys Pioneer with Shimano BR M734 cantis.

 

[Tsundere]

Hiya, I've been getting a horrible and consistent squeak from my front brake, on closer inspection there's quite a bit of play from the brake arms. I have compared the play on another newer bike and swapped brakes to compare, and It definitely seems to be the case that the studs are worn in comparison. I think the stud needs replacing. What's the best procedure for this? Is there a work around? Big job?? Thanks! 1989 Overburys Pioneer with Shimano BR M734 cantis.

No idea how to go about replacing the stud, but a picture of the full bike would be appreciated.

 

[Darcus]

Pictures of the bike:

https://imgur.com/a/oX0cFOP

 

[Tsundere]

Cheers, that's a lovely bike, not seen those colours together before, works well.

To get back on topic, the canti stud issue is something I've never thought about, but is clearly an issue that all of us should think about, riding as we do older bikes with cantis. Over many decades they must take some serious punishment, a lot of friction so wear out is probably more common than we realise.

Interested to see what options exist for replacement or repair..

 

[Takingabreak]

isn't noise a feature of canti brakes?

Maybe some grease on the studs or does teflon paint exist that you could paint the studs with, which would increase the size of the stud by the thickness of the paint

 

[Ippikin]

Is it not the other way around? The softer brass bushings of the cantilevers will wear out relatively quickly whereas the hard steel stud wear will be far less. Definitely worth swapping to less worn cantilevers in the first instance..

 

[7Speed]

Is it not the other way around? The softer brass bushings of the cantilevers will wear out relatively quickly whereas the hard steel stud wear will be far less. Definitely worth swapping to less worn cantilevers in the first instance..

That was my thought. I had an issue with a canti stud but it turned our to be an ovalized bushing. Moving the canti back to the original bike sorted it out - bushing just formed on the stud shape. Maybe worth checking the bushings just in case?

 

[greencat]

Agreed. I think it more likely the cantilever has worn rather than the boss. But open to being corrected!

 

[27motorhead]

Before you buy anything new I'd remove cantilevers and grease the studs before refitting and then toe-in the pads so the front of the block hits before the back of the pad (about 1mm difference). The rotating force of the rim naturally pulls the pad into full contact and also the toe-ing of the blocks helps eliminate squeaking too.

You can also buy cantilevers that use their own bushes to pivot on. they mount as normal cantilevers, but use their built-in bushes to ensure the tolerancing is spot-on.

 

[27motorhead]

Forgot to say... Lovely Overbury's by the way!