The art and science of threaded headset adjusting
- Thread starter kjarrett
- Start date
That was going to be my line....are the cages in upside down.
In some instances the shape of the headset won't facilitate them being upside down. Its rare, but i have had it.
I chuck the cages and put in more balls. Fill it right up, then throw one away.....as my old boss always said. Chucking one out stops the issue of binding.....also this gives you more bearings and can help if the race is a bit pitted, by stopping them moving to, and sitting in the same place all the time.
In some instances the shape of the headset won't facilitate them being upside down. Its rare, but i have had it.
I chuck the cages and put in more balls. Fill it right up, then throw one away.....as my old boss always said. Chucking one out stops the issue of binding.....also this gives you more bearings and can help if the race is a bit pitted, by stopping them moving to, and sitting in the same place all the time.
Tough one without being able to feel the headset as its turned.
I tighten the nut until i feel binding then back it off slightly until it moves freely, then the rock test i cup around the bottom cup and top of fork to feel for play, only rock gently and feel the play in your hand, there is play in the brakes too which can transmit itself through the bike, one way to eliminate this to some degree is to turn the bars 45deg so the wheel is pointing sideways and the brakes cant rock back and forth, feel for the play in the actual cup. If you can do that and feel a slight knocking, and it will be slight, and tightening it up a smidge creates binding, then something in the headset is either missing worn or wrong.
Just for reference, here is all the original parts of your headset:
I tighten the nut until i feel binding then back it off slightly until it moves freely, then the rock test i cup around the bottom cup and top of fork to feel for play, only rock gently and feel the play in your hand, there is play in the brakes too which can transmit itself through the bike, one way to eliminate this to some degree is to turn the bars 45deg so the wheel is pointing sideways and the brakes cant rock back and forth, feel for the play in the actual cup. If you can do that and feel a slight knocking, and it will be slight, and tightening it up a smidge creates binding, then something in the headset is either missing worn or wrong.
Just for reference, here is all the original parts of your headset:
Attachments
kjarrett
Retro Guru
Thanks for the reply and the pic, yep, that's the headset. I do have a locknut bolt however with a set-screw; I'm not sure it helps all that much. :/
Define "freely" - as best you can.
I will likely be re-adjusting the headset once I get this thing out on the trail in the next few days, and thus expect to have lots of practice getting this right.
Define "freely" - as best you can.
I will likely be re-adjusting the headset once I get this thing out on the trail in the next few days, and thus expect to have lots of practice getting this right.
Hi,
Has anyone yet suggested checking the crown race is seated sqaurely. (the race that interference fits the forks?)
I imagine you have checked it, but thought it was worth a shout.
I tend to check it by holding it up to a light and seeing if it's wonky or not. &/or hitting the crown race down (with appropriate tool) until the sound changes, ensuring fork blades are all in the air.
Joe
Has anyone yet suggested checking the crown race is seated sqaurely. (the race that interference fits the forks?)
I imagine you have checked it, but thought it was worth a shout.
I tend to check it by holding it up to a light and seeing if it's wonky or not. &/or hitting the crown race down (with appropriate tool) until the sound changes, ensuring fork blades are all in the air.
Joe
kjarrett":z2s0fwya said:
Thats the thing, with some i can adjust to different levels of freeness with out any play, if yours is going from play to bind instantly then there is something wrong.
I hold the bars and lift the front wheel straight up in the air with the back brake on, you should be able to feel any binding in the headset as you turn the bars, you can also feel play in the headset this way too by lifting the bars up and forward. The freely test as you put it
i hold the bike by the top tube(crossbar) and lift the front wheel off the ground, the bars should fall left or right on their own, i tend to have it set so the action is slightly controlled and not just a flop, but again not so it is a slow action. On bmx's i used to have it tightened so the bars wouldnt flop without user input, so they stayed where they were for jumps. As i said before, there should be room for prefrerence in the action. There is a difference though between resistance of action and binding. Also after riding for an hour or two i usually have to re-adjust the headset to account for the grease bedding in.
