Rattle can respray
- Thread starter enc
- Start date
But rather ask clueless people in forums? 
Stanflashm4n
Devout Dirtbag
It’s ok , I’ll hold my breathe
fguki
Senior Retro Guru
Easy answers to your bad experience:
1.) Too thick and orange peely: You waited too long after mixing the 2 components. It was already hardening. Remember that as soon as you activated component 2, you will mix and shake the can for about 1,5 to 2 minutes maximum and then use the can until its dead empty during the following 5 minutes! If you paint something and then put it in the corner for 5 minutes and then pick it up to continue, its most likely already too late and not usable anymore.
Also, the nozzle that comes with the cans is the first that gets clogged if you stop the flow of the laquer for 3 minutes.
I use the following trick: Whenever I have to stop painting for some minutes, I remove the nozzle cap and put it in thinner - then pressure air it real quick and put it back on to continue.
Using 2k laquers is absolutely rewarding! Especially in the long run and when its completely dried out. Its MUCH harder and more durable and super recommended for bike or car wheel restorations. However! Your projects and your work-flow needs to be planned and precise. There is no time to fool around or dilly dally here and there in your workshop once you started painting. When you paint, you paint! Fast, precise and accurate and then stop! And let it dry most accurately as recommended!
2.) It was low gloss when cured: If a fresh laquer gets dull, you most likely used it in a too humid or a too cold environment. Or both! Never ever spray-paint under lets say 18-20 degrees Celsius.
1.) Too thick and orange peely: You waited too long after mixing the 2 components. It was already hardening. Remember that as soon as you activated component 2, you will mix and shake the can for about 1,5 to 2 minutes maximum and then use the can until its dead empty during the following 5 minutes! If you paint something and then put it in the corner for 5 minutes and then pick it up to continue, its most likely already too late and not usable anymore.
Also, the nozzle that comes with the cans is the first that gets clogged if you stop the flow of the laquer for 3 minutes.
I use the following trick: Whenever I have to stop painting for some minutes, I remove the nozzle cap and put it in thinner - then pressure air it real quick and put it back on to continue.
Using 2k laquers is absolutely rewarding! Especially in the long run and when its completely dried out. Its MUCH harder and more durable and super recommended for bike or car wheel restorations. However! Your projects and your work-flow needs to be planned and precise. There is no time to fool around or dilly dally here and there in your workshop once you started painting. When you paint, you paint! Fast, precise and accurate and then stop! And let it dry most accurately as recommended!
2.) It was low gloss when cured: If a fresh laquer gets dull, you most likely used it in a too humid or a too cold environment. Or both! Never ever spray-paint under lets say 18-20 degrees Celsius.
Last edited:
fguki
Senior Retro Guru
I am going to put this in a seperate post because it cant be stressend and emphasized enough:
After so many paints (also non bike related) and also so many trial and error projects and paying dearly in the past
When you paint something: Do it paitently (!!!)
100% you will get runners because you simply painted too thick per layer and you were too impatient. I learnt: I rather always buy 2 cans more than originally planned for 36,00 Euros more per bike frame than dealing with impatience and runners.
Be super delicate and fluent in your movements. You want to make sure you get even layers and get the same amount of paint in every little corner from every angle of your frame!
To be honest: Painting a bike frame properly is like starting your school career in class 3. Painting tubes and cylindrical objects is far from being "easy" or amateur class.
After so many paints (also non bike related) and also so many trial and error projects and paying dearly in the past
When you paint something: Do it paitently (!!!)
100% you will get runners because you simply painted too thick per layer and you were too impatient. I learnt: I rather always buy 2 cans more than originally planned for 36,00 Euros more per bike frame than dealing with impatience and runners.
Be super delicate and fluent in your movements. You want to make sure you get even layers and get the same amount of paint in every little corner from every angle of your frame!
To be honest: Painting a bike frame properly is like starting your school career in class 3. Painting tubes and cylindrical objects is far from being "easy" or amateur class.
grey-beard
Orange 🍊 Fan
This stuff looks different and specifically for bikes.
Spray Bike Europe
Spray.Bike was created out of frustration with existing products. If you’re not an experienced pro, it’s so difficult to use metal or car spray paint on bikes.
spray.bike
grey-beard
Orange 🍊 Fan
It says that it's a powder rather than wet paint?
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