Proof you can polish a Turd or at least roll it in Glitter!

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Blimey 6 months of inactivety and this thread is suddenly more popular than its ever been

Must get and post a few pics as things have moved on but its not a rider yet... Still on the hunt for a polished Syncros stem with a rise
 
Re: Proof you can polish a Turd (Schwinn FS)

Well i'm eagerly awaiting your next update as i can't wait to see what you've done mate ;) ..
 
Re: Proof you can polish a Turd (Schwinn FS)

thanks!
with those photos of various bb, and that complete xtr groupset i return immediatly young for a moment...
you're assembling an amazing mtb!!!
 
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Retro Spud":kfww5mkn said:
Had a right score at the Bristol Bike jumble last Saturday aside from a great day out in Bristol I picked these up.

A brand new Judy 1 1/8 Steerer which is great as it will allow me to raise the stem a little more. Even though it came sealed in a bag I’ve no idea what the red sticky stuff is, it looks to have been used during the manufacturing process when bonding the steerer to the crown



After Syncrosfan burst my bubble by highlighting that my 113mm Bottom Bracket was too long for my cranks I’ve been on a mission to sort the bottom bracket out with one that has a 107mm axle, and I think I’ve pulled off a coup, I came across this……..





Which going by the weight I believe is a TI Syncros BB and best of all its in the right size 107mm, however this one easily came apart down to component level which the vendor was keen to demonstrate and show me the newly installed bearings, (the relevance of which I will share with you shortly) ;)


Once installed I was a little underwhelmed by its rather mundane appearance and so removed it and whilst doing so idle thoughts crept in and I reached for an unused Grafton Speedcase with 122mm axle that I had left over from my Manitou build and swapped the axels over… and then the challenge began :D





First problem one has a 73mm shell the other a 68mm, therefore the shoulder on the axel to keep the bearings in different positions.

Second problem is one sits flush/inside the bottom bracket and the other has a shells that sits loud and proud on the outside which added to the bearing / axel position mis-match.

Thankfully all was not lost as I bought two BB on here years ago made by “Real” that used custom made spacers in order to position the bearing in the right place, having used one without any problems the other was stored away so it became my savior and allowed corrections to be made with the Bearing/axle/shell position





All in all a happy union of no less than Three Bottom brackets, perhaps not the cheapest option but one that got the brain cells going and looks every bit the part, fully accept its yet to be tested but drawing upon "Real's" technology and the fact Grafton designed his bottom bracket cups to be tuned in for the right bearing tension gives high hopes

Hope you like my Frankenstein Bottom Bracket

107mm Syncros Axle

Bearing Spacers courtesy of Real

Bearing Cups and Lockrings care of Grafton :cool:


















hope you like ! :LOL:

That right there is some first rate bike porn!
 
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Thanks Guys ^^

The old girl was almost ready to rock and Roll but borrowing a set of donor wheels it soon became apparent that the rear shock had issues in the shape of a dead spot that caused an annoying clunk at the end of its return stroke.

After a lot of enquires in across the UK which mostly ended up in a lot of scoffing at the fact I wanted to spend good money on a old Rock Shox Super D
I ended up casting my net further and into Europe but even the guys in Radservice in Berlin who serviced my ALPS4r couldn't help.
After help from fellow forum members Hippie Tech in the USA was suggested... and the Jerry Vanderpool came good and did me proud, can't recommend the guy high enough
The rear end is now proper sweet again ! check him out at http://www.hippietechsuspension.com


Then came unexpected problem #2 :shock:
The previous owner had done a class job of drilling out one of the cable stops that run below the down tube in order to run a Hydraulic line to the rear brake, it was so subtitly done I never noticed it until it came to fitting the brake cable.

Aside from running a Magura HS22 set up (if you can't beat them join them) is there any way round this problem, I.e a Ferrule with a lip to stop it being pulled through ?

Anyone else had this problem / crossed this bridge ?
 

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Re: Proof you can polish a Turd (Schwinn FS)

Maybe a stepped ferrule but that would look a bit clumsy as it would sit outside the stop unless you made it an interference fit and pressed it in. Or found one over the internal size and re drilled the stop to make it drop in.

make sense?
 
Re: Proof you can polish a Turd (Schwinn FS)

Firstly not sure how i missed this thread? Secondly I have been enthralled from start to finish, top work fella and as echoed already its great to see something different :D

Love It :D

Jussa
 
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