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Which bushes and why then?
Plastic or metal.
Which bushes and why then?
Plastic or metal.
Project 'rat' Mount Vision - my first ever Marin!!
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old_coyote_pedaller
MacRetro Rider
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Is that for me or Kaz? If for me, not sure what you mean.
FluffyChicken":hwdnsr37 said:
Is that for me or Kaz? If for me, not sure what you mean.
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For you, you pointed out both metal and plastic bushes.
I'm wondering which are better to use and why.
I have no experience in them (or shoxs, other than hanging a Marin frame on the wall out of the way and chucking the shock (fox) in a tub to fit at some point.). That was some time ago now.
For you, you pointed out both metal and plastic bushes.
I'm wondering which are better to use and why.
I have no experience in them (or shoxs, other than hanging a Marin frame on the wall out of the way and chucking the shock (fox) in a tub to fit at some point.). That was some time ago now.
old_coyote_pedaller
MacRetro Rider
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OK, from the blurb on various MTB suspension websites they say the plastic/polymer bushes are longer lasting, don't think they need lubed.
I've not found them to be any more hard-wearing than the DU steel ones which have an anti-friction coating on inside surface. Mind you I used them with the aluminium spacers/reducers that came on bike, they say for best results use steel (stainless) spacers/reducers. I think I've now got one of the heavy duty steel/polymer kits on the Fox shock on my Super V. Not used it much since though, using my F800 mostly just now.
Think the biggest problem with most bike rear shock bushes is they get wet/muddy and this gets into bushes, destroying them. I made up a small guard from a cut down Crudguard similar to what was fitted to Specialized FSRs, fitted it to swing arm to keep crap from rear wheel off the shock, also protects the shock shaft and seals from gritty muck which keeps it from getting inside shock.
At least on the Marins the seat-tube does a good job of keeping the crap off the shock.
OK, from the blurb on various MTB suspension websites they say the plastic/polymer bushes are longer lasting, don't think they need lubed.
I've not found them to be any more hard-wearing than the DU steel ones which have an anti-friction coating on inside surface. Mind you I used them with the aluminium spacers/reducers that came on bike, they say for best results use steel (stainless) spacers/reducers. I think I've now got one of the heavy duty steel/polymer kits on the Fox shock on my Super V. Not used it much since though, using my F800 mostly just now.
Think the biggest problem with most bike rear shock bushes is they get wet/muddy and this gets into bushes, destroying them. I made up a small guard from a cut down Crudguard similar to what was fitted to Specialized FSRs, fitted it to swing arm to keep crap from rear wheel off the shock, also protects the shock shaft and seals from gritty muck which keeps it from getting inside shock.
At least on the Marins the seat-tube does a good job of keeping the crap off the shock.
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Thanks for all the info chaps. It's increasingly looking like it would just be cheaper to flog this on and buy a frame with a working shock already in it, for instance there's an '02 East Peak with working Fox shock in my size for £85 BIN on eBay at the mo..... :shock: :facepalm:
Thanks for all the info chaps. It's increasingly looking like it would just be cheaper to flog this on and buy a frame with a working shock already in it, for instance there's an '02 East Peak with working Fox shock in my size for £85 BIN on eBay at the mo..... :shock: :facepalm:
old_coyote_pedaller
MacRetro Rider
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" fox rear suspension appears in good condition"
That's no guarantee it's OK, I'd still factor in a new seal kit.
And another headset as crown race is missing, and so is rear disc caliper mount.
It's £1.50 short of a hundred quid including post, plus the hassle/cost of selling the frame you already have against buying the Fox shock at £80. Right enough there's no guarantee it won't need a seal kit. Thing is I'd probably change the seals on it if I were to buy it myself for peace of mind.
There's plenty videos on YouTube showing how to change seals, with care and cleanliness it's easily enough done.
" fox rear suspension appears in good condition"
That's no guarantee it's OK, I'd still factor in a new seal kit.
And another headset as crown race is missing, and so is rear disc caliper mount.
It's £1.50 short of a hundred quid including post, plus the hassle/cost of selling the frame you already have against buying the Fox shock at £80. Right enough there's no guarantee it won't need a seal kit. Thing is I'd probably change the seals on it if I were to buy it myself for peace of mind.
There's plenty videos on YouTube showing how to change seals, with care and cleanliness it's easily enough done.
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Fair point, although I have a complete headset and don't run discs....I suppose I was giving this as an example. Maybe what I really mean is, I'm not sure I can be bothered as I'm not sure I'm really wanting a full sus bike after all and the costs will inevitably add up if I bear with this frame.
Always an issue when you buy with your heart not your head
Fair point, although I have a complete headset and don't run discs....I suppose I was giving this as an example. Maybe what I really mean is, I'm not sure I can be bothered as I'm not sure I'm really wanting a full sus bike after all and the costs will inevitably add up if I bear with this frame.
Always an issue when you buy with your heart not your head
old_coyote_pedaller
MacRetro Rider
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"the costs will inevitably add up"
So true.
Bought a set of 700c wheels and tyres off Gumtree and a Shimano 105 SC 3x8 (brifters) groupset off here to upgrade my wife's mid 80s road bike from 27x1"1/4 wheels and 2x5 gears with downtube shifters. Now I need a 118mm BB for the 3 ring cranks, I've 113mm but no 118mm, and downtube cable mounts, and cable adjusters and.....ye get the picture.
"the costs will inevitably add up"
So true.
Bought a set of 700c wheels and tyres off Gumtree and a Shimano 105 SC 3x8 (brifters) groupset off here to upgrade my wife's mid 80s road bike from 27x1"1/4 wheels and 2x5 gears with downtube shifters. Now I need a 118mm BB for the 3 ring cranks, I've 113mm but no 118mm, and downtube cable mounts, and cable adjusters and.....ye get the picture.
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You are not trying hard enough
This cost about £80 to build, I still have the spare Shokworks that is usable but does leak a bit.
This cost about £80 to build, I still have the spare Shokworks that is usable but does leak a bit.
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'Must try harder', you're right
Still not entirely convinced that there's anything wrong with the original shock for now, yes it's heavy and ungainly compared to modern stuff, but maybe for now....will see if I can source some cheap forks and get it built up, I've everything else I need pretty much.
May be buying a couple of bikes this week to split up for useful spares for another build I'm doing for a mate, so perhaps if I'm patient (never my strong point :facepalm: )
And now, I must go to work, would like to say it's at double time rate, but it isn't. Joy of self employment.
'Must try harder', you're right
Still not entirely convinced that there's anything wrong with the original shock for now, yes it's heavy and ungainly compared to modern stuff, but maybe for now....will see if I can source some cheap forks and get it built up, I've everything else I need pretty much.
May be buying a couple of bikes this week to split up for useful spares for another build I'm doing for a mate, so perhaps if I'm patient (never my strong point :facepalm: )
And now, I must go to work, would like to say it's at double time rate, but it isn't. Joy of self employment.
