Powdercoat then Decals?

[letmetalktomark]

Having had a reasonably expensive 2 pack wet paint finish (Argos) with decals lacquered in over the top I am not sure I would do it again.

Just out of interest, why not?

For the reasons re decal lift.

I have used Argos a couple if times and with Gil's decals (all with no problems) but also have applied decals to powdercoated frames with no overcoat and again have been fine.

Personal preference I guess :?

 

[sweety]

I'm suprised your decals are in the clear coat on you 91 CC as the ones on my 91 CC are stuck on top of the final paint finish (cinder gold) The bike is in factory finish as I bought it new. A couple of the stickers have the odd scrape in them the paint finish below the sticker is the same as the rest of the frame

 

[KeepItSteel]

I like the factory look finish of decals under laquer, for me it gives the extra 'je nais se quoi' to a high end finish.

As it happens I have two Kona frames hanging in the garage, a 97 and 98 Explosif.
The 97 has decals over the laquer and the 98 under the laquer. I prefer the 98 finish and am going about a respray on this frame so will probably go for a factory finish but have also been worried about the shrinkage issues, as well as easily chipping paint.

I have a couple of thoughts id love answered..

How are these older frames originally painted? enamel/2 pack/something else?as they dont seem to suffer from chipping on anything like the same level that even Argos paint jobs suffer from.

Do transfer type decals fare better than vinyl? (if you can source them)

Are the shrinkage issues perhaps to do with the diameter of tubing involved and the amount of expansion that takes place during baking/curing?

Other than powdercoating (which im avoiding on steel frames), whats the hardest wearing finish? Im after the best for original factory finish, and longevity.


KIS

 

[mountainloz]

+1 for decals over powdercoat

 

[Cocktail_Dave]

we have painted and had powder coated a number of frames at work in recent weeks and have 2k clear coated over powder coat and decals with no problems at all, my nrs has worn very well like this and looks very good.
we have had no issues with decals or laquer cracking when on bake.

on the other hand the kona is painted in 2k and it chips quite easly but gives a better smoother finsh.

its each to there own but for me its powder coat decals and top coat

 

[gil_m]

Just going back to the decal issue, a lot of original decals were scree prnted onto a water slide trasfer base. These are very thin and can easily be lost under a clear coat and also don't suffer from expansion/shrinkage when baked.

Now the down side...

They are an art in themselves to fit, if you find originals more than 10 years old they will have dried out and will break up when fitting and unless you want 100 sets all the same it's just not viable to set-up screens to print them

As for paint durability, talking to various painters I think paint durability has changed with the recent intoduction of tighter paint/chemical regulations. I think it's called progress, but which would you rather have a few paint chips or spray painters with brain tumours....

 

[Rio]

Other than powdercoating (which im avoiding on steel frames),

is there a reason not to powdercoat steel frames? I'm thinking of repaint/powdercoat my steel Stumpjumper.

 

[KeepItSteel]

Other than powdercoating (which im avoiding on steel frames),

is there a reason not to powdercoat steel frames? I'm thinking of repaint/powdercoat my steel Stumpjumper.

I've heard conflicting opinions but some say that any moisture trapped under the layer of plastic on a powdercoat can wreak havoc on the tubing without being easily noticed. I think this applies more to any damage to the layer of plastic through general riding, to which moisture can then penetrate.

For me its enough of a reason not to bother. But if its not a frame that you cherish then still may be worth considering a powdercoat I guess.

 

[Rio]

I've heard conflicting opinions but some say that any moisture trapped under the layer of plastic on a powdercoat can wreak havoc on the tubing without being easily noticed. I think this applies more to any damage to the layer of plastic through general riding, to which moisture can then penetrate.

ok that's good to know. I thought that powdercoating was the more protective way to go, but for steel that might not be the case.
Thanks!

 

[dendy]

I work in the steel industry and use both paint and powder coating for my products.. Powdercoating is more durable than paint. If it is penetrated, then depending on how bad dictates if moisture can penetrate. This too can be the case for paint that can easily be damaged.

Bottom line is steel can and will rust from under paint or powder coat even if there are no breaks for moisture to penetrate.. Now i love my saracens and too my knowledge most if not all were powdercoated - i believe it is commonly discussed that the overall condition of the finish and frames from bitd is often above average. Many of these frames have been blemished..

Sorry off on a tangent..