Plz help identifying mountain bike frame

Thanks sylus for the link, i tried the tin foil trick to see what the frame was like under all that flaked clear coat/lacquer and the plated frame looks in good condition. So what plated frame is this, nickel, chrome etc, as i don't think it's any stewlewis has kindly listed, or is it..?.

Here is a pic of the condition of the frame which is mainly the same all over.
SDC12639.jpg


And here is the same area after the tin foil trick and a lot of elbow grease.
SDC12655.jpg


As you can see the plate is shining through, now because i intend to use this bike for all season's, I think the best protection in the long run, is to get it re-coated or lacquered or both. Anthony you touch upon clear coat and lacquering, but can you or anyone tell me what was the original finish on these frames, was it a clear powder coat, and then lacquered like you say, as I'd like to keep it original looking as possible.

I do realise this means loosing the stickers, but in the name of doing what's best for the frame, i guess it has to be, i have searched high and low to see if i can get hold of some replacement stickers, but no luck on finding the same Merlin logo, anyone have any idea's where i might be able to find some..?. I could maybe remake the logo in illustrator, and have it printed out on decal paper, but are these home made stickers any good, as in sticking to the frame and being lacquered over, would they perform like the originals or fade maybe. Also does anyone nowhere there is a picture of that original logo, would help me if i do end up recreating one.

I've ordered the tools to be able to strip the bike down, they should be with me in the next few day's, so hopefully ill be getting the frame to the body shop next week. The only bit that I'm a little worried about is the forks, because i guess these need servicing, and I'm not sure how you go about that, and would i need any new parts, and if so can i still get the parts, with the forks being so old. So any advice or tips on going about this would be great, thank you.
 
Most will have the varnish and or the surface rust and yes it's hard work but the results show it's worth it. Those that have cleared the old laquer off shine it all up and often then have it re-laquered

The decals...a pm to gil_m will sort out period correct and at a fair price

http://www.thecycleshed.co.uk/bikegallery.html mention you saw his website in here
 
Thanks sylus for the link, I've been in touch with gil_m and he can sort out the stickers, he's gone on holiday now though so will get in touch again when he's back.

I've been to a local powder coating firm, and they say they can just lacquer the frame for me, for around £50, this includes sending the frame to be dipped and cleaned first, will this cleaning method be ok for this frame, and do you all think it's a decent price.

Thanks.
 
I decided against the chemical dip cleaning, and instead went with the labour of love option, so armed just with silver foil, a six inch metal ruler, and 0000 grade wire wool and some hours later, I've managed to get this far, without stripping the bike yet. I just covered up the chain and cogs etc, then using the edge of the ruler scraped at the lacquer to rough it up some, then used silver foil and ultra fine grade wire wool to remove the rest., none of this harmed the frame in anyway. However the frame is not perfect, it has a little pitting here and there but nothing major.

I guess the next step will be to strip the bike and finish the frame, then move onto the lacquer process, so if anyone has any tips or advice, about treating the frame or about lacquering plated steel then please let me know.

Then hopefully it will just be a case of cleaning up and servicing all the parts, some new pedals and a few other bits.

bikestrip.jpg

bikestrip2.jpg


Thanks.
 
Oh my days, this has made my whole week!

I know this topic is a bit previous and i'm a noob, but please bear with me, as this thread has just told me what my bike is - namely Stewlewis has done, it seems has/had the very same frame..? His photo has expired but he describes it perfectly and i think these pics of my one suggest so..

Frame details (twist treatment on downtube only)
IMAG0069_1_zps75edae48.jpg

IMAG0068_1_zps3d34ae8d.jpg

IMAG0067_1_zps988d541f.jpg


My own brew 30/40/50 drilled rings on Ofmega arms
IMAG0139_1_zpsd286bde9.jpg


How it looks today
IMAG0041_zpsd67b7fbf.jpg

IMAG0045_zps63a268bc.jpg


I built this from a bare frame last year, having bought it as a wreck of a roadie build, the only other thing i kept were the Rigida DP22 rims which i've just this week painted gloss black. Spec includes Nexave shifters/levers, Humpert Space Bugle handlebar, Dawes retro seat with custom springs, vintage Suntour XC Pro rear deraileur, the Fat Franks and beach cruiser fenders kinda speak for themselves but i would add that this is a cycleway commuter and grafter that was built to work/play hard on the smooth stuff.

I have a nice Pace Racing carbon kevlar / billet suspension fork for it, the new tyres are the same but with coffee tread and the cream just on the walls, big spun-polished front hub (Shimano M525) to match polished Sturmey Archer 3-speed final drive.. to compliment the HG51 8-speed rear cassette (yes that's 72 gears), floating discs (203/160) and RST calipers.. all to go on in the next week.

The discs aren't very retro, obviously, but as i share with pedestrians (Milton Keynes' Redway system is fantastic!) i need good brakes. Plus the rim brakes stain the cream tyre walls.. But the Pace fork should do it justice, even though it'll hurt drilling the carbon fibre bridge for the fender!

I'll get pics up once it's done, i may have to buy more spokes yet but i'm still aiming for the weekend - And then just to source the correct decals!
 
Same fork-type seat stay design and drops as the PW's frame (mine had a brazed-together alloy road fork with room only for 1in thick tyres when i got it so i had to put that cheap lead one on until i found something worthy). I've never seen the Merlin rigid fork, great to have the set, suits it perfectly!

Provision for mudguards/pannier racks there i see too, not so with mine at all. Another headache was the 1in head tube, though i've shimmed the 1-1/8 clamp-type crown for the new bouncy forks.
 

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Re:

Forgot about this, i have a 3-speed Elswick Hopper which i love and use most atm (my commuter), the Merlin has a few teething issues but i was out on it today - the RST twin-pot cable calipers stick if used heavily, so i now have some late '00s NOS but generic Deore hydro brakes in the post.

My Nexave levers have the shifters built-in, so i shall have to use the XT shifters i have laying around, these are unfortunately fairly modern 9-speed versions so i'm looking for something a little more fitting.

I've tried to keep it late '90s where i could, the XTR rear derailleur is from around there, the LX front one is black so that too is very previous, both NOS.

The Sturmey Archer CS-RK3 hub is an oddity but well worth having for the cycleway, as it's so much smoother and quicker than even the rear derailleur - the 3-speed unit being ideal for tackling an underpass or such. I use this bike now to pull my kid in her trailer, as well as ride like a fugitive on my own, so the vast gear range is appreciated.

IMAG0238_1.jpg
 

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